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A walk up Whin Rigg and Illgill Head from Eskdale

The last time I was in Eskdale it was freezing. Today it’s a balmy 25°c as I take advantage of a warm dry spell to complete the southern fells within reach from this beautifully remote and most quiet of lakeland valleys. I’m staying at Eskdale NT Campsite and although my objectives today, Whin Rigg and Illgill Head are a bit of a trek from here there’s lots of historical interest on the way which makes this a walk through history as well as a walk in the mountains.

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A walk to Kinney Lake – Mount Robson Provincial Park

By any measure Mount Robson is a mountain lovers mountain. Our first view of it is driving south on Highway 16 where it appears like a giant at the end of a long straight stretch of highway. The tall regimental green pines flanking the roadside act like a funnel drawing our eyes towards it’s huge bulk, long narrow ridges, vertical drops and snow plastered peak. It’s a mammoth mountain and it comes as no surprise to learn that at 12,972ft it’s the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies.

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A walk up Green Crag from Eskdale

The settled high pressure of the last few days continues to keep the clouds away and after another freezing, star studded night the morning dawns bright and clear. It’s a perfect day for walking. If yesterday’s walk, Harter Fell is on the fringes of Lakeland today’s, Green Crag is the border post. There is not a Wainwright further south west of it and beyond are the flattening foothills and fields leading to the Cumbria coastline.

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A walk up Harter Fell from Eskdale

Driving over Birker Fell last night the road started icing up as the sun lowered over the horizon and I wondered at one point if I was going to have to pull over and spent the night on the moor. Thankfully I made it down into Eskdale and after a freezing night under the stars dawn has brought blue skies and watery sunshine, which is providing no warmth at all on the frozen fields but makes for a bright, dry and clear day, perfect for walking.

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A walk in Death Valley National Park

Is a walk of less than a mile really a walk? That’s maybe one for the philosophers but I’ll go with the Chinese proverb that says “A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step” and count my few single steps in Death Valley National Park as most definitely a walk. I had occasion to recall our visit to Death Valley after reading two recent posts, one by Sarah of travel with me which featured a picture of it and another by Bruce of vanmarmots travels who walked a longer trail than my own short leg stretch at Badwater Basin. Both reminded though just how beautiful and desolate Death Valley is and have prompted me to share my own experience of it.

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Pike O’Blisco and Cold Pike from Wrynose Pass

It’s my second day parked up in a nice little spot on the Wrynose Pass. Last night it got down to -1°c in the van and it’s freezing as I walk up the road to the three shire stone, grateful for the steepness to warm me up. Yesterday I turned left and headed to Great Carrs, today I turn right towards Pike O’Blisco and Cold Pike. It’s another crisp and clear day in Lakeland with not a cloud to be seen in the cornflower blue sky.

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A walk in Ancient Forest/Chun T’oh Whudujut Provincial Park

Sunlight through the trees

The Ancient Forest/Chun T’oh Whudujut Provincial Park is one of the newer national parks in British Columbia, being established in 2016. It’s a relatively small park with only a short hike around it and the walking is almost all along boardwalks that have been put in place to protect the delicate ecosystems from human feet. Some of the western red cedars in the forest are a thousand years old or more and the park is a rare example of inland temperate rainforest, an environment unique to North America. And who can resist a walk in a rainforest.

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Great Carrs, Swirl How and Grey Friar from Wrynose Pass

The Halifax Bomber Memorial on Great Carrs

I’ve had a summer away from Lakeland doing other things but as I drink my morning coffee a thousand feet up the Wrynose Pass watching the sun rise over Wetherlam it’s like meeting up with an old friend again. Shared experiences and years of familiarity mean the relationship is comfortably secure and time and distance apart is quickly forgotten. Every corner tells a story, and my particular memory here is of pushing an old mark three Cortina up an icy Wrynose Pass just after Christmas sometime in the mid eighties on our way to Eskdale YHA.

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A walk up Talaia d’Alcudia, Mallorca

I forget that it’s market day and we’re stuck in traffic crawling through the ancient walled town of Alcudia on the Mediterranean island of Mallorca. To pass the time the taxi driver puts his AC/DC playlist on, Highway to Hell is the first song and I’m hoping it isn’t an omen for my planned walk today. Eventually he drops me just outside Campament de la Victoria which is the start point of my walk up Talaia d’Alcudia, the highest mountain on the Alcudia peninsula. As the cab pulls away the sunshine on my face and the silence in my ears are both equally welcome.

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Moraine Lake and Lake Agnes Tea House Trail

Events elsewhere mean many Canadians are vacationing at home this year and it seems half of them have chosen to visit Banff and Lake Louise at the same time as us. Consequently, I made sure to call at Lake Louise Ski Resort yesterday and secure our tickets for the 8.15am bus stopping at Moraine Lake first before going on to Lake Louise. This way we still get to see both of these extremely popular and beautiful lakes but can take our time at Lake Louise and walk the Lake Agnes Tea House Trail, a walk I’ve had my eye on for some time.

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The Lighthouse Loop Trail – Vancouver Island

When ‘Oyster’ Martin moved to Vancouver Island in the 1980’s he fell in love with the rugged landscape and rocky headlands of the west coast that he saw from his fishing boat each day and had a dream to create a trail along the coastline that could be accessed and enjoyed by all. Forty years later that vision has grown into the Wild Pacific Trail and today I’m walking the Lighthouse Loop section, which happens to be the first section that was completed back in 1999.

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A walk around Emerald Lake, Yoho National Park

The alarm goes at 6am and by ten past we are on the road, half awake and unwashed with the bed still warm in the back of the van. All is quiet as we drive out of Lake Louise Campground through the sleepy town and out onto the Trans Canada One heading west. The sun is breaking through but clouds still cover the higher peaks and mist floats over the Bow river as we head up Kicking Horse Pass and back into British Columbia and Yoho National Park. The only other vehicles on the road are gigantic trucks, engines labouring up the incline.

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Walking the Tonquin Trail on Vancouver Island

It’s a six hour drive from Victoria, the capital of British Columbia on Vancouver Island to our campsite in Tofino and my nerves are tested on the narrow bendy bit of the Pacific Rim Highway beyond Port Alberni. I am after all, driving on the wrong side of the road and sitting on the wrong side of the vehicle. The journey passes without incident though and as we park up at Tsawaak RV campground a gossamer thin sea mist is drifting in from the ocean obscuring sight and muffling sound. The cold dampness on our skin is refreshing though after the heat of Vancouver and Victoria where temperatures were in the mid 30’c.

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Allen Crags and Seathwaite Fell from Seathwaite

In March 1988 Andy and I were enjoying a few days walking in a cold and frosty Lakeland. Having walked up Grains Gill from Seathwaite we were taking a break when we noticed two red clad walkers who were motoring up the path at some pace behind us. “They’re not hanging around,” remarked Andy and as the two speedy walkers drew level we recognised one of them to be non other than Sir Chris Bonington, one of Britain’s best known and celebrated mountaineers. We chatted for a few minutes before Sir Chris went off with his companion to climb Central Gully on Great End which was nicely compacted with frozen snow and Andy and I went off to climb England’s highest mountain for the first time. I’ve walked past that spot in Grains Gill many times since and will do so again today, in the heat of an English summer as I walk up Allen Crags and Seathwaite Fell. Each time I pass by I remember with fondness the day I met a mountaineering legend.

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Rosthwaite Fell and Glaramara from Rosthwaite

It’s always nice to start a walk straight from the campsite and Chapel House Farm has the added benefit that I can have breakfast looking up at my first hill of the day, Rosthwaite Fell. Wainwright dedicates his book on the Southern Fells, the book I’m currently walking through to “The Sheep of Lakeland, the hardiest of all fellwalkers”. In what has been a sustained spell of dry weather these hardy Herdwicks are suffering a little. Richard, the farmer and campsite owner tells me the dry weather has not been good for his flock of a thousand Herdwicks who are suffering from the lack of water and parasitic infestations growing in their wool. For his livelihood and the sheep’s well-being I hope Lakeland has some rain soon, maybe just not today.

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Lens Artists Challenge – Books

This week’s Lens Artist’s Challenge has been set by Ritva who invites us to share our photographic interpretations on the theme of Books. I’ve categorised my own contributions into The Grand, The Ancient, The Quirky and The Personal.

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Three Wainwrights from Coniston Village

Before starting my book by book journey through Wainwright’s iconic 214 I had climbed many of them before, one hundred and one of them to be precise. Coniston Old Man was one of those and my walking journal tells me I climbed it on Friday 14th August 1987 with a couple of other guys and the weather was clear. To be honest I don’t remember much about that walk but the 80’s and early 90’s were years when long social evenings in the pub were as much a part of any visit to the Lakes as the walking itself so that may account for my somewhat hazy memory.

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A walk up Wetherlam from Tilberthwaite

Tilberthwaite car park is almost full when I arrive, late in the afternoon on what has been a lovely warm and sunny Lakeland day. There are a dozen or so cars and three or four vans that I figure will be keeping me company overnight. By 8pm however everyone has departed and I have the place to myself. Dusk turns slowly into the ink black night of the countryside, far away from neon, where stars can shine bright. I enjoy a quiet evening followed by the sleep of the saved and the thankful with only the owls and the comforting sound of the newly born Yewdale Beck to disturb the silence.

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A walk up Holme Fell

The day is turning into a very fine one for walking as I park in the very same spot I occupied two months ago. The sky is cloudless and eggshell blue, the sun is beaming but it’s April and the temperature is still pleasant and there is not so much as a breath of wind to rustle the leafs. Busyness has been ruling out any visits north but the diary and the weather have both become clear and my season opener is to be a not too taxing leg stretch up Holme Fell.

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