A walk to Kinney Lake – Mount Robson Provincial Park

By any measure Mount Robson is a mountain lovers mountain. Our first view of it is driving south on Highway 16 where it appears like a giant at the end of a long straight stretch of highway. The tall regimental green pines flanking the roadside act like a funnel drawing our eyes towards it’s huge bulk, long narrow ridges, vertical drops and snow plastered peak. It’s a mammoth mountain and it comes as no surprise to learn that at 12,972ft it’s the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies.

And when we park up at the welcome centre in Mount Robson Provincial Park the view is no less impressive across the grassy meadows and tree tops. I’m here, not to climb Mount Robson obviously, it’s a technical and formidable climb even for experienced mountaineers but to walk a section of the Berg Lake Trail up to Kinney Lake and maybe around the lake to the campground.

In the 70’s and 80’s there was a popular cartoon called ‘Love Is’ which featured a little naked couple with various captions as to what ‘love is’. My caption today would be ‘walking the extra mile’, or extra two miles to be precise so Mish can stay at the visitor centre with its good facilities, restaurant and shop whilst I hike up the road to the trailhead car park.

Unsurprisingly there are no hikers on the narrow tarmac road to the trailhead and I become slightly unnerved at being on my own with vast areas of forest either side of me. We’d already seen bears wandering across much busier highways and my mind wasn’t settled having just watched a video in the visitor centre on what to do in a bear encounter with an immortal line “if the bear starts to eat you, it’s time to stop acting in defensive mode”.

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I check my bear spray is easily accessible and, as I’m not in a group (noise being one of the best ways of avoiding bears) make some noise by singing Bohemian Rhapsody, which I know all the words to except that line about ‘sparing his life for his warm sausages’.

Thankfully I arrive at the trailhead unscathed, any bears no doubt put off an encounter by the thought of meeting a tone deaf, out of tune Englishman.

After looking around a small information tent staffed by park rangers I make my way across the wooden bridge spanning the Robson River and onto the Berg Lake Trail, which, whilst not busy has enough hikers on it making noise so I don’t have to.

The trail heads upwards through sun dappled pines following the line of the roaring torrent of the Robson River and I’m impressed by the volume of water flowing considering it’s the height of summer. I google it later and this is the AI answer:
“During July, particularly with recent climate trends, extreme heatwaves in the British Columbia interior cause rapid melting of high-altitude snow and the Robson Glacier. This process, sometimes described as glaciers “sweating,” sends enormous volumes of water into the Robson River.”

Mount Robson makes appearances through gaps in the tree cover and is seen to good effect when the river bends providing unobstructed views. It’s a truism that mountains are often best seen from a distance rather than close up but whilst the view from the visitor centre is excellent, no walker wants to look at a mountain just from a car park.

The Berg Lake Trail is popular and the condition of the path is superb, a mix of compacted earth and gravel with occasional board walks. I pass by some avalanche warning signs, mainly for winter hikers I suspect and they remind me of those on the Milford Track which were most definitely to be taken seriously. You can have a read of my Milford Track journey here if you like.

Eventually I arrive at a solid looking wooden bridge which takes me back across the Robson River and on to Kinney Lake. I stand on the bridge for a while taking in the scene. A snow topped Mount Robson rises high above a thick forest of ramrod straight pines and the cold damp breeze generated by the rushing of the blue glacial ice melt flowing under my feet is fresh and welcome on my face after the hot climb up from the trailhead.

Weather is always the unpredictable factor in any outdoor activity and many have toiled up mountains to see nothing but the hand in front of their face, or walked scenic trails and been rained on for days on end.

But when weather, walking and nature’s beauty all coalesce in perfect harmony, another level is reached and what may have been just a good walk is transformed into an unforgettable experience. Arriving at Kinney Lake provided me with just such a moment of joy.

The clear turquoise water of the lake is almost flat calm, the bright blue sky and white fluffy clouds reflecting off its glassy surface. In the far distance are Whitehorn Mountain and Mount Phillips, the Phillips glacier stretching down from its summit. Green pines march up the hillsides surrounding me and Mount Robson rises up vertiginously to my right. It’s nature at its purest and finest and I’m filled with a calm sense of satisfaction at being able to stand in the presence of such beauty.

There are people around, purposeful, rucksack full hikers heading up to Berg Lake for camping and families picnicking on the lake shore. It’s another two and a half kilometres to Kinney Lake Campground which I think I can make out on the far shore and as the day is mighty fine I decide to head over to it.

The trail to the campground is not as well maintained as that to the lake, reflecting perhaps that the last stop for most people is the lake shore. I press on however, avoiding tree roots, crossing areas of bare gravelly rocks and over temporary metal ladders spanning fast flowing streams to reach the campground.

The campground is next to the lake and has a large wooden covered dining area with picnic tables and tent platforms dotted about. There are bear proof food lockers and some pit toilets which are like stepping into a sauna.

There are views across the lake to the slopes of Cinnamon Peak but in all honesty the view from the campground doesn’t compare to that from the lake shore. The other peaks are hidden from view and it lacks that great panorama of looking down the whole length of the lake to far distant snowy mountains. It’s also clouded over a little which has taken the sunshine away.

That said, It’s still beautiful and I count my blessings that my legs, lungs and heart can take me to these places. I settle myself down at one of the tables, listen to the peaceful rhythm of the water lapping on the shore and watch the comings and goings of fellow hikers for a while. Eventually it’s time to stir myself and I make my way slowly back down the trail, content at having experienced another good days hiking in beautiful British Columbia.

To see a route map of this walk with stats, geolocated pictures and downloadable GPX of the route click ‘Learn more’ below