A walk up Hard Knott and the Roman Fort

The rhythmic sound of a cuckoo resonates around the head of the Eskdale Valley as I sort my gear out in the parking area just before the start of the Hardknott Pass. There is not a breath of wind around and the morning sun is breaking through the thinning clouds warming the earth and bringing with it a chorus of birdsong and bleating lambs that provide competition for the cuckoo’s onomatopoeic song. The sounds of nature, the beauty of the valley and the stillness of the morning brings a smile to my face and I know this is going to be a fine day’s walking.

Starting down the track to Brotherilkeld farm I pass by the red telephone box which, although no longer functional as a telephone now acts as a tourist information store and is also a grade II listed building.

Passing the farm the path opens out onto the fell side and climbs slightly before dropping back down to skirt alongside the picturesque and newly born River Esk. Straight ahead, Bowfell and Crinkle Crags rise up at the head of the valley.

Just before Lingcove Bridge I come across Tongue Pot where tinkling cascades tumble down into several large, deep and inviting pools of crystal clear water, the smooth green rocks of the river bed clearly visible. It’s an attractive spot for the increasingly popular activity of wild swimming and I must admit it’s tempting, not so tempting though that I would get my clothes off in public.

Lingcove Bridge is old, probably built in the 17th century and one of many packhorse bridges dotted across Lakeland along ancient drove roads in the days long before tarmac and the motor car was invented.

I don’t cross the bridge but continue following the river, which is now a tributary, Lingcove Beck, steeply up and past the impressive Lingcove Beck waterfalls. Beyond the falls the gradient eases out onto a boggy plateau and I find a rock to sit on and stop still for a moment, giving myself some time to slow down, reset and enjoy the presence and atmosphere of this silent mountain amphitheatre.

The route onwards to Hard Knott is a straightforward and pleasant one with an easy gradient and grassy walking taking me past Yew Bank and several unnamed mountain tarns and finally on to the summit which is marked by an attractive little cairn.

Wainwright says of Hard Knott that it’s not especially remarkable as a fell but it’s view of the Scafells and upper Eskdale is renowned. It’s all subjective of course but I’ve had a very enjoyable yomp on Hard Knott today and the walk along the river is delightful.

His second point however is not in dispute. The view of the Scafells from the top of Hard Knott is superb, stretching the whole length of the massif from Slight Side to Great End. And with no heat haze today it can be seen in all its glory.

After taking in the views for a while I follow the short track that leads down to the top of the Hardknott pass. The pass, along with the adjoining Wrynose Pass are rightly reckoned to be one of the most challenging passes in the Lake District that can be negotiated by car. With steep inclines and tight bends they are best avoided by nervous drivers or if there is any hint of ice.

Such trifling matters didn’t stop the Romans marching over it two thousand years ago however and building a fort at its base. Hardknott Roman Fort as it is known today, Mediobogdum as it was known then was built in the early second century during the reign of Emperor Hadrian to guard the supply road that ran from the port at Ravenglass through to Ambleside and beyond.

I live in a City founded by the Romans and have always had an interest in the empire that lasted a thousand years so I’m pleased to visit a place I’ve driven past many times but never had the opportunity to stop and explore.

There are many good sources of information about the fort online so I’ll not repeat any of it here but English Heritage have a good one that you can read here if you like.

After wandering around the fort for a while trying to imagine what soldiers stationed here two thousand years ago would have made of life as unwelcome foreigners in a strange land I follow the road back down to Jubilee Bridge, cross the cattle grid and arrive back at the van in time for lunch.

To see a map of this walk with stats,geolocated pictures and a downloadable GPX of the route click ‘Learn more’ below