The rhythmic sound of a cuckoo resonates around the head of the Eskdale Valley as I sort my gear out in the parking area just before the start of the Hardknott Pass. There is not a breath of wind around and the morning sun is breaking through the thinning clouds warming the earth and bringing with it a chorus of birdsong and bleating lambs that provide competition for the cuckoo’s onomatopoeic song. The sounds of nature, the beauty of the valley and the stillness of the morning brings a smile to my face and I know this is going to be a fine day’s walking.
Starting down the track to Brotherilkeld farm I pass by the red telephone box which, although no longer functional as a telephone now acts as a tourist information store and is also a grade II listed building.
Passing the farm the path opens out onto the fell side and climbs slightly before dropping back down to skirt alongside the picturesque and newly born River Esk. Straight ahead, Bowfell and Crinkle Crags rise up at the head of the valley.
Just before Lingcove Bridge I come across Tongue Pot where tinkling cascades tumble down into several large, deep and inviting pools of crystal clear water, the smooth green rocks of the river bed clearly visible. It’s an attractive spot for the increasingly popular activity of wild swimming and I must admit it’s tempting, not so tempting though that I would get my clothes off in public.
Lingcove Bridge is old, probably built in the 17th century and one of many packhorse bridges dotted across Lakeland along ancient drove roads in the days long before tarmac and the motor car was invented.
I don’t cross the bridge but continue following the river, which is now a tributary, Lingcove Beck, steeply up and past the impressive Lingcove Beck waterfalls. Beyond the falls the gradient eases out onto a boggy plateau and I find a rock to sit on and stop still for a moment, giving myself some time to slow down, reset and enjoy the presence and atmosphere of this silent mountain amphitheatre.
The route onwards to Hard Knott is a straightforward and pleasant one with an easy gradient and grassy walking taking me past Yew Bank and several unnamed mountain tarns and finally on to the summit which is marked by an attractive little cairn.
Wainwright says of Hard Knott that it’s not especially remarkable as a fell but it’s view of the Scafells and upper Eskdale is renowned. It’s all subjective of course but I’ve had a very enjoyable yomp on Hard Knott today and the walk along the river is delightful.
His second point however is not in dispute. The view of the Scafells from the top of Hard Knott is superb, stretching the whole length of the massif from Slight Side to Great End. And with no heat haze today it can be seen in all its glory.
After taking in the views for a while I follow the short track that leads down to the top of the Hardknott pass. The pass, along with the adjoining Wrynose Pass are rightly reckoned to be one of the most challenging passes in the Lake District that can be negotiated by car. With steep inclines and tight bends they are best avoided by nervous drivers or if there is any hint of ice.
Such trifling matters didn’t stop the Romans marching over it two thousand years ago however and building a fort at its base. Hardknott Roman Fort as it is known today, Mediobogdum as it was known then was built in the early second century during the reign of Emperor Hadrian to guard the supply road that ran from the port at Ravenglass through to Ambleside and beyond.
I live in a City founded by the Romans and have always had an interest in the empire that lasted a thousand years so I’m pleased to visit a place I’ve driven past many times but never had the opportunity to stop and explore.
There are many good sources of information about the fort online so I’ll not repeat any of it here but English Heritage have a good one that you can read here if you like.
After wandering around the fort for a while trying to imagine what soldiers stationed here two thousand years ago would have made of life as unwelcome foreigners in a strange land I follow the road back down to Jubilee Bridge, cross the cattle grid and arrive back at the van in time for lunch.
To see a map of this walk with stats,geolocated pictures and a downloadable GPX of the route click ‘Learn more’ below
Great to see you out enjoying this weather too, Jim. A fabulous hike to add to your KitKat. Mel
Thanks Mel, I do love a Kit Kat 😁
Do you live in Chester, Jim? We’ve only ever driven Hardknott Pass once xx
I do Jo 😀was once over the Hardknott Pass enough? The western Lakes tend to be much quieter than the rest of the Lake District
I like the quiet bits, Jim. We recently watched a programme about Roman Chester and were amazed at the finds and how it used to look before the sea receded. I’ve only ever been once and we missed so much xx
It’s a lovely city to live in Jo, and yes the sea (or the Dee estuary anyway) used to come up to the city walls! 😀
There’s a few things I love about this walk, and stunning views is one of them. Your campervan looks fabulous. I’ve enjoyed your videos, Jim.
Thanks Suzanne, a bit smaller than yours! we enjoy it and the freedom it brings to go anywhere 😀
Hi Jim
We drove the Hardknott Pass several times because we love driving this road in different weather conditions. It’s a great road with magnificent views. Thanks for your photos which reminding us of our drives.
We visited these Roman ruins too. That was a wet business as the ground was very wet.
The Fab Four of Cley
🙂 🙂 🙂 🙂
Thanks Klaus, yes some great views from it and a lovely part of the country 😀
The walk up following the water looks especially delightful, and the views are amazing!
Thank you Sarah, yes the walk up the river is very accessible, I think a lot of people who don’t venture any higher walk up to Tongue Pot and slightly beyond there is a place called Great Moss which has a sense of being in the heart of the mountains without having to climb any 😀
That sounds like my sort of walk!
I thought it might!😁
Love the banner shot. I always enjoy following a river. If I was 40 years younger I might start exploring rivers to their source, forging my own path where necessary.
The Dee is my local river and I occasionally think about walking it to its source which is by Bala Lake, maybe one day. The Thames path another that I think about
That’s a great version of this walk, I think when I did it I parked by the Roman fort and headed up to Border End and then on to Hard Knott. Your route is much much better alongside the river, if I ever repeat this one it has to be this way as I’ve missed a lot of the area.
Thanks Steve, I was pleasantly surprised how attractive and interesting the river Esk was, and it’s easy walking on grass all the way to the summit doing it north to south
I’d love to hike to the call of a cuckoo! We don’t have them. Looks like you have a bit of everything in this walk, and ending with a great view. Maggie
Thanks Maggie, yes Cuckoo’s do have a lovely sound, not so nice that they lay their eggs in other birds nests though!
Amazing walk. Tongue pot is our favourite place to go wild swimming.
I fully understand why Mél, it’s a beautiful spot😀