A walk around Île-Grande on the Côte de Granite Rose

Île-Grande is a big name for a little island. Measuring just 2km by 1km Île Grande is on Brittany’s Côte de Granite Rose (pink granite coast) a popular 30km stretch of coastline known for its pink granite rock formations and wide sandy beaches. The GR34, Sentier des Douaniers (custom officers path) goes around the island, just a small segment of its long journey from Saint Nazaire to Mont Saint Michel. A distance of roughly 1240 miles makes it the longest coastal trail in France and twice the distance of the South West Coast Path.

We’re staying on the islands municipal campsite for a few days and spend our time watching the sunsets and the ebb and flow of the tide in the bay whilst waves of wind and rain, interspersed with brief bouts of sunshine sweep over us from the Atlantic.

Eventually a dry day arrives and I decide to venture out on a journey around the island. I feel like Robinson Crusoe. The path passes within feet of our camper van pitch so all I have to do is walk through the wooden gate separating the campsite from the beach and I’m off and running.

My first port of call is a group of ruined buildings across the bay I’ve been looking at for two days. The Ruines de Toul are, depending which internet version you believe the remains of an old tidal mill using the tide to turn a waterwheel and grind grain, or the 19th century homes of local seaweed harvesters.

More credible recent accounts are it was a youth hostel in the 1930’s and then used by the Germans for target practice during WWII which accounts for its ruined state today.

Whatever the history, the ruins occupy an isolated spot at the western most point of the island, Pointe De Toul Ar Staon near the island of Île Aganton which is only accessible at low tide.

Leaving the ruins I head across to the northern shore where in contrast to the relative serenity of the bay the waves of the Atlantic are rolling incessantly onto a wide expanse of rugged granite coastline sending salt spray into the air as they crash against the larger rocks.

The path passes through a bird reserve which was previously the largest granite quarry on the island and then heads along a gravel track out to another spit of land, Pointe De Kastel Erek.

Continuing along the coast it isn’t long before “Le Corbeau” (the Raven) a large and prominent granite rock tower comes into view. For some reason Le Corbeau was spared by the quarrymen who mined granite here throughout the 19th and 20th centuries and is now an eye catching feature that can be viewed  all along the northern shore.

After visiting Plage de Pors Gwen the path becomes a tunnel through ferns until it rises onto a headland where a striking granite sculpture has been placed looking out to sea.

The statue, Hommage aux Carriers, (Tribute to the Quarrymen) was carved from a four tonne block of granite by David Puech (it was two tonnes when he finished). It depicts a stone cutter practicing his art whilst gazing out across the ocean. The site was chosen as it was near to Brinterch quarry which operated from the 1850’s to the 1950’s.

Being a hill walker, I naturally have to walk to the highest point on the island. It’s easier than it sounds, just a short diversion off the coastal path and only seventy two feet high. It’s not all plain sailing though as hands have to be used to reach the very top which are huge rounded blocks of granite reached by a scramble from behind. Once on top there is a panoramic, if not quite spectacular view of the island.

Not far away there is an impressive neolithic burial chamber, Allée couverte. Two monumental smooth slabs of granite, propped up by smaller slabs cover a long narrow burial chamber. Several excavations have taken place over the years and uncovered axes, pottery and a bronze disc, no bodies though, presumably they were removed long ago.

Back on the coastal path I pass the home of the Île Grande sailing club on the attractive sandy beach of Plage de Pors Gelen before joining the trail leading to Plage de Toul Gwenn and it’s extensive sand dunes.

The dunes de Toul Gwenn are home to many delicate species of plants and fragile coastal vegetation and the path here is enclosed by a line of wire to encourage walkers to stay on it and prevent careless boots destroying the delicate eco system.

I cross the road near the short bridge that joins the island to the mainland and head into town. There isn’t a lot here, just a small supermarket, a couple of art/gift shops and a cafe which was closed but I want to visit the church, Église Saint Marc and an unusual statue.

The Ankou is a traditional Breton representation of death, a skeleton armed with his scythe and spade whose unenviable task is to go around collecting the souls of the dead.

It’s unusual to see a skeleton sculpture in a church and there are more traditional features; statues of saints, memorials and some lovely stained glass windows. After visiting the church I sit in the grounds for a while on a solid granite bench enjoying the sunshine and peace and quiet of this small provincial town.

Back on the coastal path I walk round the wide bay of Le Prat. The tide is out and sailboats lean like lifeless marionettes waiting for the tidal puppeteer to raise them to life. 

Wind shaped pines lead me to the southern point of the island at Plage des Dames where more vast expanses of dark granite boulders stretch out into the bay.

I pass the concrete pier at Port Saint Sauveur and it isn’t long before I’m back where I started having circumambulated the island and enjoyed a small taste of what the Côte de Granite Rose has to offer.

To see a map of this walk with stats, geolocated pictures and a downloadable GPX of the route click ‘Learn more’ below