Tour du Mont Blanc Day One – Les Houches to Refuge du Fioux

The storm eventually passed over in the early hours leaving behind a dry but overcast morning. Steve slept right through it all, not a care in the world, that’s an Irishman for you. Although it’s dry now, more thunder and lightning are forecast for the afternoon, just as we will be at our high point on the Col de Voza, so there is some urgency to our efforts to get out of Les Houches and on the trail in order to beat the storm.

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The Tour du Mont Blanc – An Introduction

It’s been a long two days in the driving seat, it turns out the Alps are a long way from the UK but at 5pm we roll into Bellevue Campsite in Les Houches. Dark, brooding, rain filled clouds are hanging low over the Chamonix valley cloaking the mountains. The atmosphere is still and electrified, awaiting the coming storm. The driving has stopped but walking the Tour du Mont Blanc is just about to begin. I’m tired but excited in equal measure and I can’t wait for the next twelve days.

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Port de Pollença to Cala Sant Vicenç via Coll de Siller

The walk over the Coll de Síller begins in the attractive tourist resort of Port de Pollença with its bars, restaurants and sun worshipers and ends in the smaller but equally busy resort of Cala Sant Vicenç with its bars, restaurants and sun worshipers. In between there is a slice of Mallorca that would be alien to most of the bikini clad beach dwellers who tend not to venture beyond the resorts. It’s only a short walk but can be lengthened if you decide to return over the pass after spending time in Cala Sant Vicenç. It holds interest for walkers because of the views along the Cavall Bernat ridge and down to Port de Pollença and the way, in only a mile, it connects ‘holiday resort’ Mallorca with a bit of ‘walking’ Mallorca. 

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A walk along the Three Mile Pack Track, Okarito, New Zealand

We are nearing the end of our month walking and travelling through the beautiful South Island of New Zealand / Aotearoa. We have walked on mountains and through rainforests, along beaches and glacial moraine. We have seen a wild Kiwi in its native environment and visited a predator free island. We were drenched under its highest waterfall and gazed up at the knife edge arêtes on the snow plastered summit of its highest mountain. It has certainly been a trip to remember and for our last walk we find ourselves on the ‘Wild’ West Coast in the tiny settlement of Okarito, where we will be walking the three mile pack track.

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A walk up Na Blanca

The Formentor peninsula is the rocky, volcanic spit of land that sticks out into the blue Mediterranean on the north east coast of the Balearic island of Mallorca. It’s precipitous serrated cliffs rise up sharply all along the peninsula and provide a dramatic landscape. My walk today climbs one of those rocky outcrops, Na Blanca. After being unable to travel for a couple of years because of Covid it’s a pleasure to be back on this beautiful Balearic island for a late autumn break and I am looking forward to reacquainting myself with walking in Mallorca.

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Ulva Island – Te Wharawhara – New Zealand. A Walk on the other side of the world.

It’s only sitting at home, a few weeks after my return from New Zealand that I have time to reflect on just how special my walk on Ulva Island/Te Wharawhara was. Sitting off the southern tip of New Zealand Ulva Island is a predator free paradise of unspoiled temperate rainforest and footprint free beaches where the waves of the Southern Pacific Ocean break rhythmically onto golden sands. Human interference has been kept to a minimum on the island and a rich variety of flora and fauna has been allowed to flourish naturally. I don’t think I’m likely to have the privilege of walking in such a pristine environment again. It also happens to be the furthest south I am ever likely to travel. When I discovered the handy website ‘antipodesmap’ and put my home town in, it took me to the ocean about 300 miles South East of Ulva Island. As you can’t walk on water I’m going to say that I have literally walked on the other side of the world.

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A walk along the Hooker Valley Track

After completing two of the ten ‘Great Walks’ in New Zealand we’re working our way slowly up through South Island, taking in some of the sights and doing some day walks. The Hooker Valley track is on the list as it is one of the best day walks in New Zealand and has great, close up views of Mount Cook, the highest mountain in New Zealand. We have decided to spend the night in Twizel as it’s near to the start of the track. It’s a quirky name for a quirky little town that has a slightly strange feel about it. Wikipedia tells me it has only been around since 1968 and was built to house workers on a hydroelectric scheme so this might explain its rather functional, frontier like atmosphere.

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A Walk up Puig de Santuiri

Of all the walks around Pollenca, the walk up Puig de Santuiri is perhaps not the most exciting one to complete, or the highest, or the prettiest. In saying that though, it is interesting in its own right, provides good views from its modest summit and is well worthy of a couple of hours of your time.

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Routeburn Track – Lake Mackenzie Hut to The Divide

Day Three Lake Mackenzie Hut to The Divide

All was quiet and still in the valley as I paid a visit to the outside toilet during the early hours. I could see the stars were out so turned off my head torch. As my eyes adjusted to the dark I became aware that above me, the Milky Way was stretching out gloriously across the inky black Southern night sky. A million diamonds twinkling through a black curtain. I stood there for a while, mesmerised by the sight until the night air started to chill me and I made my way reluctantly back into the hut and my warm sleeping bag. The clarity of the air in New Zealand and the lack of light pollution in the mountains has meant regular sightings of the Milky Way during our tramping adventures and it has been a joy to see the stars of the Southern Hemisphere throughout this trip, even if I have not quite got used to seeing Orion upside down.

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Routeburn Track – Routeburn Falls Hut to Lake Mackenzie Hut

Day Two Routeburn Falls Hut to Lake Mackenzie Hut

Day two on the Routeburn Track dawns bright and clear. All twenty or so bunks in our room were full but there were no ‘nighttime noises’ and I slept well, helped no doubt by the fact that the girls from Otago were at the opposite end of the lodge. The weather forecast is for rain early afternoon so I am keen to get moving as soon as we can. After breakfast we finish our packing on the balcony of the hut enjoying the morning sunshine and final views down the main Routeburn valley. 

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