After completing two of the ten ‘Great Walks’ in New Zealand we’re working our way slowly up through South Island, taking in some of the sights and doing some day walks. The Hooker Valley track is on the list as it is one of the best day walks in New Zealand and has great, close up views of Mount Cook, the highest mountain in New Zealand. We have decided to spend the night in Twizel as it’s near to the start of the track. It’s a quirky name for a quirky little town that has a slightly strange feel about it. Wikipedia tells me it has only been around since 1968 and was built to house workers on a hydroelectric scheme so this might explain its rather functional, frontier like atmosphere.
The next morning we set off on the short drive to the start of the track at White Horse Hill campsite. The road is a dead end route straight into the heart of the Southern Alps. By now we are familiar with the beauty of the roads in New Zealand but State Highway 80 is something else. Its a beautiful summers day, warm with bright sunshine and blue skies and just a few high wispy white clouds travelling across the sky on the winds of the stratosphere. We stop at the viewpoint to admire the view along the whole length of Lake Pukaki, glistening Aqua blue in the morning sunshine. Not long afterward we crest a rise and the road is seen stretching out for miles ahead of us. At the end of the road the huge bulk of Mount Cook rises up like a giant from the valley floor dominating the skyline. Its spectacular snow capped peaks and ridges look almost superimposed against the deep blue sky. I pull over and take far too many pictures before we set off again, our anticipation heightened for the walk ahead.
The car park at the campsite is busy and it seems like everybody is taking advantage of the good weather to do some tramping in the mountains. There are toilets and a large shelter/common room at the site. The Hooker Valley Track is just one of a number of tracks heading into the mountains from here so as we set off I’m hoping its not going to be too crowded. Gwen and I settle into our rhythm and it’s not long before we reach the first suspension bridge. This bridge crosses over the Hooker River, which flows from Mueller Lake to Lake Pukaki further down the valley. Mueller Lake itself is a result of climate change as originally the Mueller Glacier would have stretched all the way down the valley.
The walking is never strenuous on the Hooker Valley Track, the clue being in the title. It doesn’t have any steep ascents and follows along the valley floor. It’s not completely flat though with gentle ups and downs as it winds along the valley terrain. It’s beauty and attraction is that it is very accessible and you find yourself, with little effort walking in the heart of the Southern Alps of New Zealand, experiencing all the grandeur and majesty of the mountains around you. And today really is beautiful, the weather is perfect and the walking is pleasant along a well maintained trail which is a mix of gravel path and duckboards across some of the flat boggier ground.
The second footbridge crosses over Stocking Stream, a fast flowing river of tumbling white water coming off the glaciers clinging to the mountains far above and flowing into Mueller Lake. Looking at the cloudy glacial water and hearing the roar of the stream takes me back to Nepal and the mighty Dudh Khosi river that is a prominent feature on the Everest Base Camp trek. You can read about that Here if you would like to.
Shortly after the second footbridge the footpath turns around the valley side and Mount Cook, the view of which has been blocked so far, comes into view straight ahead. It’s a lot closer now than our view from the road and it’s good to see it close up.
The ground flattens for a while and duck boards are crossed over some boggy ground. Mount Cook is permanently in view now as we edge closer to it along the trail. After another footbridge and some great scenic walking we arrive at the end of the track, a viewpoint overlooking Hooker Lake. The viewpoint is a flat area of ground, set above the lake with some stone walls that act as seats. It’s pleasant enough but it’s pretty busy as the weather is so good so Gwen and I decide to head down to the lake shore for lunch.
We find a spot amongst the morain rocks that litter the shoreline and enjoy lunch with a view in the sunshine. And what a view it is. Hooker Lake, like Mueller is fed by its glacier which sadly has now retreated far up the valley as temperatures rise. Being glacial, it’s waters are not clear but cloudy and yellowy green in colour. There are also a number of small, mini icebergs floating on its surface.
We are sat by the lake surrounded by the highest mountains in New Zealand, their sharp snowy tops all glistening in the sunshine. The Aroarokaeh and Kirikirikatata/Mount Cook ranges flank the valley and ahead of us, across Hooker Lake and the glacier valley is the highest of all Aoraki/Mount Cook. It’s a magnificent view, as close as a walker can get and made all the better by the good weather and clear blue skies. It’s snow capped summit and razor sharp ridges are crystal clear in the clean air and some of the hanging blocks of snow around the summit look like they could drop at any time. It’s a picture of mountain perfection.
After a long while sitting admiring the view and feeling blessed to be able to walk in these amazing places and enjoy the beauty of the mountains it’s time to leave. The walk out follows the walk in but we pass a lot more people heading up so I’m glad we set off early.
Before we arrive back at the campsite I pay my respects at the pyramid style stone memorial not far from the start. It’s a memorial, initially to three people who died on Mount Cook but also a broader commemoration to everyone in the National Park who has tragically lost their lives following their hopes, dreams and ambitions in these spectacularly beautiful, but sometimes unpredictable and deadly mountains. It’s a sobering reminder at the end of what was an extremely satisfying mountain day that they should never be taken for granted and must always be respected .
For a map, route details and picture gallery of this walk click ‘Learn more’ below
