A personal journal recording and reflecting on my walks around the world.
The cloud is hanging low in the valleys as I leave the campsite. It is one of those still, silent Lakeland mornings where even the sheep are silenced by the muffling effect of the mist. Driving past Thirlmere, the water resembles a sheet of glass, the evergreens on the hillside reflecting perfectly in the Mill Pond flatness of the reservoir.
I last walked up Gowbarrow Fell in the summer of 1992. We were stopping in a holiday cottage in Matterdale and I took a walk up in the late afternoon with my faithful border collie, Hemp. That evening, Mrs E and I watched Linford Christie win gold in the 100m final at the Barcelona Olympics. After my most recent walk up this fell I returned to the campervan to hear that Marcel Jacobs had just won Gold in the 100m final at the Tokyo Olympics. In an even more pleasing act of synchronicity, when I checked the date of Christie’s win, you’ve guessed, it was the very same day, 1st August. I’m looking forward to walking up Gowbarrow Fell on the 1st August 2050 to continue the pattern.
Glenridding Dodd and Sheffield Pike, the objects of today’s walk form the northern wall of the Glenridding valley and can be clearly seen from Glenridding village and from Gillside campsite, my home for a couple of days walking. Unfortunately (or fortunately if you like the heat) today’s walk coincides with some of the hottest days of the summer and with temperatures reaching into the 30°c’s an early start seems best to avoid both the crowds and the heat.
Continue reading “Glenridding Dodd and Sheffield Pike from Glenridding”
I arrive early at the National Trust car park just South of Dockray and am spoilt for choice as it is completely empty. Not liking choice, I choose two spots before finally settling on a third. It’s a cold, crisp dry January morning with the promise of a bit of sun later. The road into Dockray is followed for a short while until the footpath, next to a little art studio is joined.
Day 14 Glaisdale to Robin Hoods Bay 19 Miles
Day fourteen, the last day, starts with a wholesome farmhouse breakfast after a good nights sleep. Over breakfast we chat to the farmer about the weather and we all agree that it has been rather wet for the time of year. It’s a dairy farm and the farmer tells us that ‘even the cows are miserable’. This makes me wonder how you can tell a miserable looking cow from a normal looking cow but I guess I’m not with these cows every day for months and years. Continue reading “Coast to Coast Glaisdale to Robin Hoods Bay”
Day 13 Clay Bank Top to Glaisdale 18 Miles
The end of the walk, which for a couple of weeks has seemed so distant is now suddenly within touching distance and only two days walking away. They are long days though, seventeen to nineteen miles a piece depending on which book you read (I did this walk prior to possessing my very own GPS which no doubt would have given yet a different number!) We are dropped off at Clay Bank Top just after 9am and, like yesterday the day starts with an uphill leg and lung warmer, a steady six hundred feet of ascent from the road up onto Urra Moor.
Continue reading “Coast to Coast Clay Bank Top to Glaisedale”
Day 12 Osmotherley to Clay Bank Top 11 Miles
Having spent two days crossing the Vale of York we are now back in hill country and about to enter our third National Park, The Yorkshire Moors. We enter the Park just outside Ingleby Cross and the trail soon starts to head upwards at a steady incline through Arncliffe Wood. It is a still, silent morning and we are the only people around. As we climb through the wood, out of the corner of my eye I catch sight of a deer. It has its back to us and is munching away on some ferns about thirty feet away. Despite our best efforts all too soon it senses our presence and rapidly darts off into the undergrowth, it’s bouncing white bottom contrasting with the green foliage as it vanishes, magician like from view.
Continue reading “Coast to Coast Osmotherley to Clay Bank Top”
Day 11 Danby Wiske to Osmotherley 10 miles
We had breakfast with a couple who had stayed in the same B&B as us in Richmond, Michelle and Richard. They were fellow Coast to Coasters but were travelling light, they looked fit, had caught us up and would leave us behind today. Today will be the shortest day of the whole walk so we are not in any hurry to leave, finally getting on the road about 9.45am. It was another dry day with the sun breaking through the rolling clouds just occasionally. Continue reading “Coast to Coast Danby Wiske to Osmotherley”
Day 10 Richmond to Danby Wiske 14 miles
When I first walked this section of the Coast to Coast 26 years ago Gary and I walked (on the recommendation of Wainwright no less) from Richmond to Osmotherley all in one go, twenty three miles on a baking hot day. By the time we got to Osmotherley youth hostel our feet were throbbing from the road walking and we were pretty tired and dehydrated. Today will be a little bit more leisurely, we’re splitting the Vale of York in two and only walking to Danby Wiske. Richmond was quiet and the shops just opening as we pottered about a bit before setting off just as the church bells in Market square chimed for 10am.
Day 9 Reeth to Richmond 10 miles
After a comfortable night in the Dales Bike Centre we enjoy a leisurely continental breakfast in the bright dining room, surrounded by cycling posters and bike gear and feeling only a little out of place among the half dozen or so cyclists dressed in their Lycra. A relatively short stage to Richmond is the order of the day so we are in no rush to get out and we find ourselves in a bit of a holiday mood. Eventually we get ourselves moving, pack the rucksacks and head out into the fresh air. Continue reading “Coast to Coast Reeth to Richmond”