Tour du Mont Blanc Day Three – Refuge de Nant Borrant to Les Chapeiux

If day one of the Tour du Mont Blanc was an hors d’oeuvre and day two a starter, day three is the 16oz steak and chips. Today we finally enter the land of big mountains with two high cols, the Col du Bonhomme and the Col de La Croix Bonhomme to get over and one one iconic mountain hut, Refuge Col de La Croix Bonhomme to visit.

The day starts with cornflakes, croissants, bread, jam and coffee, what’s not to like about that. We sit at our allocated table with the Australian mum again. They were in the bunks above us last night and her son is still not well. Their journey may be over before it has really begun.

By 7.30am we are out the door. I’m keen to get going to give us plenty of time either to admire the views from the top or to grind up the hill if the going is tough. From the lodge it’s a continuation of the very steep path of yesterday but only for a kilometre or so until the path levels off and enters a pleasant section of walking across meadows. Herds of cows, each with a weighty bell around its neck provide a chorus of clanging chimes, like church bells rung by drunk bellringers.

The trail is seen stretching ahead and beyond the meadows the mountains await, Aiguilles de la Pennaz rises up steeply and dominates the view. It’s grey razor like serrated ridge striking against the background of cloudless blue sky. It is both spectacular and imposing. To its left we see our route into the mountains, the path leading to the Col.

It’s already hot even though it’s early and the day is only going to get hotter with not a cloud to spoil the view. Just before Refuge de la Balme there are public toilets and we take a breather and fill up at the water fountain.

Beyond the Refuge the hard work of the day begins. The path tilts upwards and the roads and tracks of the first two days are left behind and we find ourselves walking up shale and rock on a rough and rugged mountain path. The rewards for the sweat and the pumping heart rate are a swift ascent and glorious views down the Contamines valley.

After the initial steepness there is a slight easing as the trail passes through a mossy section with a series of streams by Chalets de Jovet. After this the incline becomes severe once more and with each slow upward step we edge ourselves ever closer into the heart of the big mountains. Around us, there is an ever increasing feeling of exposure and wildness.

At 2,043m Tumulus Plan des Dames is passed, a curious pile of stones which for some reason has been deemed deserving of its very own sign.

After an hour or so of steep, sustained and sweaty uphill walking we reach the broad flat area that is the Col du Bonhomme, 2,329m (7,641ft). This is the first ‘proper’ col on the walk and the effort of getting here is soon forgotten as we gaze at quite magnificent 360° views. Valleys stretch into the distance to the north and south and jagged snow patched mountains rise up all around us.

Some stone cairns mark the top along with a couple of signposts and a small wooden shelter that seems to have attracted dozens of hikers like bees around honey. Steve and I avoid the hut and wander over to a small pillar which has half a toposcope set onto it detailing the view to the north east, towards Mont Blanc itself.

After a rest, a drink and a bite to eat we head off towards the Col de La Croix Bonhomme. We are still climbing and the path is rough and undulating, by no means an easy walk, especially after the exertions of climbing to the Col du Bonhomme. On route we pass a donkey laden down with the bags of guided walking groups. The guided groups only have to carry food, water and maybe a rain jacket or fleece for each day leaving a donkey to do the donkey work.

Just before the final rise to the stone pillar that marks the top of the col, there is a tricky section to negotiate. A slanting rock shelf in a gully with a stream running across it has to be traversed but the shelf is worn and slippery with loose stones so care was needed, especially crossing the stream as a fall here would not be pleasant.

Once safely over it’s only a short walk up to the top of the Col de La Croix Bonhomme, at 2483m (8,146ft) our high point of the day. The col is more minimalist than the Col du Bonhomme and is better for it. A small flat area dropping off on three sides is dominated by the large cairn tower with just a couple of sign posts. Once again there are breathtaking views all around. A little way down the path is the refuge. After admiring the views Steve and I make our way down for lunch.

The Refuges, Rifugios and Auberge’s on the TMB are all part of the journey, experience and folklore that makes the TMB one of the classic walks and each have their own peculiarities and character. However, some are deemed to be more iconic than others and Refuge Col de la Croix du Bonhomme, because of its location high in the mountains with panoramic views from its balcony is certainly one of those so I was keen to stop and experience it even though we weren’t staying the night.

It seems I wasn’t the only one and every man and his dog, and his donkey, seems to have descended on the refuge for lunch. The balcony is like Brighton Pier on Bank Holiday Monday so we dump our bags and find a seat inside. Steve goes for pasta whilst I opt for something ambitiously described as Chocolate Gateaux but turns out to be more brownie.

After lunch it’s time to head down to our accommodation in the valley. This is to be our first big descent and I must admit I wasn’t looking forward to the three thousand foot, two hour drop into Les Chapeiux. I had visions of ankle turning rocks and knee jarring rock steps that can be the conditions on some steep Lakeland descents.

As it turns out, my worries were unfounded. The walking is good, excellent even on firm ground with no difficulties or challenges. And because it’s a comparatively long walk in mileage down into the valley, the gradient is gentle and the views can be admired at leisure. 

As height is lost the scene quickly changes from rocky mountain to alpine meadow land with grass and colourful wild flowers in abundance. Surrounding us the grand snow speckled mountain ranges still command our attention and sometimes we just have to stop walking and stare at them. Today we have arrived in the abode of the mountain gods and must pay our due respects.

It’s a long descent but the views across the valley to Les Grandes Aiguilles and La Clavettaz are sublime and the walking is a joy. We catch up with the Japanese group at the old stone arch bridge crossing the Ruisseau de la Raja and from there we descend through fields to the lovely hamlet of Les Chapeiux and our accommodation at Auberge de la Nova. Rucksacks off, Steve and I enjoy a couple of well deserved ice cold beers sat outside in the courtyard enjoying the afternoon sun.

At dinner we sit with three young French women, perhaps in their mid twenties. Forty years ago this would have been a dream for Steve and I but… tempus fugit and today we both have daughters older than our dinner companions. The generation gap is confirmed when I ask what the recent strikes in France over pension reform are about. I can see their eyes glaze over and imagine them thinking ‘talking pensions’ with two old guys from the U.K. was not high on their list of ‘must do’s’ on the TMB. They are far too polite to say so however and they do explain it. We go on to have good conversation about travel, study and that staple of hostels and lodges, where have you hiked and where are you hiking next. Their English of course is superb.

Steve and I have our own room tonight which gives us a good opportunity to wash and dry clothes, sort our kit out and get everything charged up.

We have the window open and when I get up in the night I see a million diamonds twinkling in the clear night sky over the valley.

Route Map, Walk Stats, Geolocated Picture Gallery and 3D Flyover Video Below.

Click ‘Learn more’ on the map.  Note: you won’t see the map if reading in WordPress reader but click on the little world at the top of the page to view it on the browser.