Walking with giants, the coastal redwoods of northern California

Reading the news recently that there are now more redwoods in the U.K. than in California (read here) reminded me of my own encounter with these magnificent giants of the natural world on an RV tour of the seven most western states in the contiguous USA some years ago. Commitments, coughs and colds seem to be conspiring to keep me away from Lakeland at the moment so I figure now is as good a time as any to finally write up and share some of these RV experiences that have sat gathering dust in the bottom drawer…

We flew into Salt Lake City three weeks and two thousand road miles ago and having reached the Pacific Ocean in Northern California we have finally managed to stay in one place for a few days. When Lewis and Clark finally arrived at the Pacific during their epic expedition to explore the recently purchased lands of the Louisiana Purchase in 1803, Clark remarked that his men beheld, “with estonishment the high waves dashing against the rocks & this emence ocian.” After three weeks on the road I know exactly how they felt.

We arrived in California via the dry deserts and sandstone arches of Utah and the towering buttes and tumbleweed of Monument Valley. We’ve stood speechless at the rim of the Grand Canyon and in awe of the beauty of Yosemite. We’ve baked in Death Valley and driven the long dusty straight roads of Arizona. I’ve got used to eating lunch in remote diners with guys with Glocks strapped to their waist belts, hoping I don’t get into a road rage incident with them and we’ve spent hours in what seems to be the only supermarket chain in the USA, Walmart.

And here on the Pacific coast we’ve enjoyed some days away from the RV staying at the Lost Whale Inn. After constant movement its been good to stay in one place and we have spent it eating good food and sitting on the rocky beach in Abalone cove listening to the crashing surf and the sea lions on turtle rocks. Relaxing, resetting and watching the sun go down over the endless ocean. It’s also been a novelty, having lived within five feet of each other in the RV for the last three weeks to be thirty feet away but still in the same room. The bed is about as big as the floor space in the RV. But it wouldn’t be a road trip if we weren’t on the road and the time has come to say farewell to the lovely Lost Whale and continue our journey north.

Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park is our first stop and after looking round the visitor centre we head off into the lush green forest to experience some forest bathing par excellence. We’ve just spent three days at the ocean where the sound of the sea is constant. In the forest the rollers have been swapped for the rippling of Prairie Creek and the musty smell of moss, pines and ferns replaces sea spray and salt.

The giant coastal redwoods of northern California are the tallest living things on the planet, stretching up to 370ft. They are also one of the oldest, some of the trees surrounding us are over two thousand years old. The Romans were in Britain when these trees were born. We are walking through history and it’s slightly mind boggling.

We don’t walk far and stand still often. Mrs E finds a bench which is just perfect to catch the morning sunlight shimmering through the fronds of the vertiginous giants lining the path. The trees stand like silent sentinels, soaring into the sky, straight as arrows and tall as skyscrapers. They are majestic, calming and strangely reassuring, like a visit to your grandmas house when you were a child.

After a stroll along the revelation trail I want to see one of the named trees in the park called, not very imaginatively, ‘Big Tree’ which is further down the road. Big Tree is 304ft high according to the sign, that’s almost as tall as Big Ben (Elizabeth tower if you want to be picky) and is a mere 1,500 years old. The forest around Big Tree seems a little wilder, the trees are packed closer together and there is a primordial feel to it.

There is of course a reason there are more redwoods in the U.K than in northern California these days. For millennia the coastal redwoods have thrived here because the sea mist rolling in off the coast provides just the right conditions for them. But climate change and global warming are changing the ecosystem in which these trees have lived making them more susceptible to fire, drought and infestations (here).

Who knows what the future holds. But I hope these trees will still be here for the next 1500 years. And I hope that governments the world over will find the collective will to act on climate change so that we are all still here in the next 150 years. For our grandchildren’s sake.

There is some good news. The Yurok tribe had lived on this land for centuries, managing it and living in harmony with the redwoods and nature until they suffered the fate of many indigenous people and had it stolen from them in the gold rush of the mid 1800’s. Now though they are being given some of their traditional homeland back to manage in partnership with the National Park Service (Here). Too little perhaps and small recompense for the original crime but at least it’s a step in the right direction.

After our short walk enjoying peace and tranquility among the giants it’s time to hit the road again. On a high note we are heading to Oregon, where buying and smoking cannabis is perfectly legal, far out man.

For a route map of this walk including geolocated pictures click on ”Learn more’ below.  Note: you won’t see the map if reading in WordPress reader but click on the little world at the top of the page to view it on the browser.