The Tour du Mont Blanc and the Alps in general are perfect for hut to hut walking. In France they are generally called Refuges, in Italy Rifugios and in Switzerland Auberges. They are often located right in the heart of the mountains among the most spectacular scenery and provide you with dinner, breakfast and a bed for the night. They also have showers, of varying degrees of efficiency. Last nights was by means of a token, which gave me maybe fifty seconds of mildly warm water before stopping altogether whilst in mid soap. We shared a room with an older German couple, the lady spoke reasonable English, the man none, which matches the extent of my German.
The lodges are international affairs. Like minded people from all nations coming together to enjoy the outdoors, eat together, sleep in dorms together, and share time and space together. Engaging with people from countries and cultures different to your own is always a good thing. We realise that we are really not that different from each other, we smile, we laugh at the same jokes, we share the same hopes and dreams for ourselves and our families. In an increasingly polarised world where nationalism and ‘othering’ are on the rise perhaps our world leaders should be forced to go on a long walk together, it would make the world a better place.
It’s a beautiful morning. translucent wisps of cirrus appear in an otherwise cloudless sky. I walk up the grass bank and take some pictures of the lodge with the backdrop of Aiguille du Gouter, Aiguille de Bionnassay and Mont Vorassay looking big and sharp in the cool morning air , their snow capped peaks contrasting with the aqua blue sky. Yesterday was really just a warm up day to get us moving on the trail, tomorrow the main event begins with some big mountain cols to get over. Today then is a day for consolidation, keep the legs moving and getting stronger, keep fed and hydrated, keep covered up and finish the day with nothing strained or hurting. And most importantly, enjoy the walking.
From the refuge it’s downhill. In fact at 1505m (4,937ft) Refuge du Fioux is already our high point of the day. If only it was downhill all the way, but walking, like life, tends to be a series of ups and downs some bigger than others. We walk down through woodland and reach a car park at Le Crozat. There are some campervans parked up and I make a mental note to add it to my list of potential night stops.
Before long we reach the small hamlet of Bionnassay, here the trail drops steeply through a woodland gorge to cross the Torrent de Bionnassay on a footbridge. The river is fast flowing and there is a huge, noisy amount of water rushing under our feet due to the storms of recent days. A steep climb out of the gorge follows and then some pleasant woodland walking to Le Champel with glimpses through the forest down to Saint Gervais Les Bains and the mountains beyond.
Le Champel is a chocolate box little place full of wooden chalets that have bright colourful window boxes. There is a small black bell tower on one of the buildings and old street lamps. I wouldn’t be surprised if Heidi popped out of one of the chalets but there is no one to be seen.
We stop for a break at La Villette which has a large and inviting water trough and fountain at a crossroads. The weather is full on hot today and with virtually no cloud cover the sun is blazing, ‘burning your eyeballs out’ as my dad would jollily say on those rare days of holiday sunshine in 1970’s Prestatyn. His did do his National Service in Egypt though, so may have been confusing Prestatyn with Cairo.
We are meeting plenty of suntanned youngsters on the trail wearing shorts and T shirts but they are from places like California and Spain where the sun never sets. It was clear from this morning this was going to be a hot and sunny day and for two pale white guys from the U.K. where the sun only makes guest appearances keeping covered up is the best option. Heat stroke is no joke, as the saying goes. Before leaving the fountain I soak my hat in the water, the cold water running in rivulets down my face and neck feels so refreshing but within ten minutes it has dried.
Crossing the Bon Nant river we are at our lowest altitude of the day. From here it’s a steady up, generally following the course of the river to near its source and then beyond that to our bed for the night at Refuge de Nant Borrant.
We arrive at Les Contamines in time for lunch and find a space at a restaurant opposite the town square. Steve likes his food and proceeds to tuck in to a full cooked lunch whilst I settle for coffee and Pain au chocolat. Whilst walking I never have much of an appetite during the day so tend to live on sugar. The evening meals in the Refuges though are absolutely superb so I don’t think I’ll be losing twenty pounds like I did in Nepal living on Dal bhat.
After lunch we fill up again at the large water fountain in the town square before rejoining the TMB down by the river. The walking is good and the trail criss-crosses the river whilst heading steadily up through woods and parkland. The babbling sound of the river accompanies us as we walk and the shade of the trees provide some relief from the full glare of the increasingly hot sun.
There seems to be a lot of people about today and as we pass a park there is a huge communal picnic going on involving a couple of hundred people, food on tables and bottles of wine and champagne cooling in the river. It’s then the penny drops, today is Bastille Day, the National day of France so people are off work and out celebrating and enjoying the sunshine. We decide to join in the celebration by having an ice cream from the van. ‘Vive La France’.
The trail continues on to the rather elaborate, white painted 17th century church of Notre-Dame de la Gorge. With the day being a holiday it’s perhaps busier than usual with people walking up from the nearby car park. Beyond the church though, the people, and the paved road disappear as the final steep section is tackled.
From the church the gradient tilts upwards as a steep rocky track is followed through thick woodland. It’s the hardest work we’ve done all day, the incline is severe and it’s also the hottest part of the day. Before long I am soaked through with sweat.
We know we are nearly there though so we find our rhythm and plod steadily on. We finally leave the river Bon Nant, which we have followed for most of the day behind at an historic arch bridge, Pont Romain which crosses a deep ravine and waterfall. Although called Pont Romain the bridge was probably not built by the Romans. The track however does follow the route of the old Roman road. Last month I was walking on Roman roads in the north of England and now I’m struggling up one in the South of France. Those Romans got around.
Eventually we leave the trees and I can see Refuge de Nant Borrant. It’s still above us but it doesn’t take long before we are finally sitting in its lovely garden enjoying a drink and drinking in the mountain views. Just as we finish checking in a large guided group of Japanese arrive so I head straight to the shower, thankfully not controlled by token today. When I come out there is an orderly queue of Japanese the whole length of the corridor, towels in hand.
There are ten of us in the room tonight. An Australian mother and son, the son has been in bed since they arrived and he didn’t come to dinner. An American couple from Massachusetts, Kyle and Jo who we will get to know well over the walk and four girls from I know not where. At dinner the Australian says her son has been vomiting. Like Kyle and Jo, they had walked all the way from from Les Houches, doing in one day what we had taken two to do. The day has been very hot and its possible the heat may have got to him.
Before bed I check the weather forecast, it turns out Southern Europe is about to enter a heatwave. I stare at my waterproof overtrousers in the bottom of my pack, looks like they are going to get a free holiday being carried around with no work to do. It’s a good job we packed sunblock though.
To Read More About My Hike Along The TMB Click Here
Route Map, Walk Stats, Geolocated Picture Gallery and 3D Flyover Video Below.
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I do look forward to receiving your updates Jim. The photos and videos are superb!
Thank you Dave 😀
When I was in the Alps earlier this year I was amazed by the huts and how some if them
(Oops) When I was in the Alps earlier this year I was amazed by the huts and how some of them were right atthe top ofthe high mountains. Goodness knows how they built them up there! I guess you weren’t stopping that high but it must have been a good experience travelling from hut to hut. Not sure I would manage staying in a dorm with strangers every night. I have enough trouble getting to sleep in my own bedroom!
Yes, we saw some of the higher ones, most of those frequented by climbers I think. I tried to avoid the bigger dorms of 20+ so ten was the most we shared with I think.
It looks and sounds idyllic up there. So many birds calling.