Sandstone Trail Day Three Burwardsley to Whitchurch

This last section of the Sandstone Trail is possibly the best. There is sustained good walking throughout the day along varied and interesting paths passing through differing landscapes. There are hills to climb with sandstone escarpments to walk along providing panoramic views of surrounding counties. There is peaceful walking to be had through ancient woodland and unique heathland and, once across the obligatory fields there is a pleasant watery flat section along the Llangollen canal before a short walk across town takes you to the finish in Jubilee Park, Whitchurch.

The weather during this particular June has been consistently good and once again I am greeted with sunshine as I step out of the car at Peckforton Gap, the dip between the Peckforton Hills, where I finished last week, and Bulkeley Hill, my first objective of today.

It’s a steady and reasonably effortless climb up the track that leads to the top of Bulkeley Hill. As I gain height, the now familiar views across the Cheshire plain to the Clwydian range appear over a mossy sandstone wall. This view of the Welsh hills across the Cheshire Plain will be more or less constant throughout the first half of the day. 

Bulkeley Hill is managed by the National Trust and consists of semi natural ancient woodland with multiple walking trails. Through the trees there are glimpses over to the Pennines, which I’ve not seen Pale Heights on day one. The paths are wide, numerous and well worn with roots and rocks to watch out for. At the top there are a number of dog walkers out enjoying the morning sunshine.

The trail heads downward and out of the woods but it is not long before I am back in the trees and heading up again onto Raw Head, the second hill of the day. Towards the top the path is pretty overgrown with ferns and bushes and the top itself, marked by a Trig Pillar appears out of nowhere amongst the scrub.

At 227 metres Raw Head is the highest point of the whole Sandstone Trail, not high by Lake District standards but high enough to afford some grandeur to the views from the Trig Point. The view east to the Pennines is now obstructed by trees but the ever present view of Wales, now seeming like an old friend is still there.

Raw Head is also an SSSI for the geological importance of its exposed Red Sandstone which dates from the Triassic period. I enjoy a good walk along the ridge line passing the exposed crag of Musket’s Hole before heading down again through the trees to the A534.

Crossing the road its another climb up to my third and final top, Bickerton Hill. Apparently you can see nine counties from the top Of Bickerton Hill and that alone is reason enough for me to stop for lunch. I decide to eat at a beautifully positioned and crafted stone memorial to a lady called Kitty Wheeldon. Her husband obviously loved her very much and acquired the surrounding land, passing it into the care of the National Trust in memory of her. There are poems on all four sides of the memorial, Scottish themed I think and probably penned by the husband:

“When up the Cerrig Llyn I gaze
I’ll think of you and other days
Of rocks and stones and falls dull roarin’
Of heathered fells and blood red rowan
The stones I’ve seen with you my dear
The distant views and waters clear
All these I’ll see and think them poorer
Now that I lack you my dear”

Lunch is spent sitting on a block of sandstone gazing out over a patchwork of green fields and hedges dotted with clumps of woodland, wondering who Kitty was and if I would be any good at writing poetry. My son writes Haiku’s but he’s an arty actor so that’s to be expected. I’m not sure I understand the concept of Haiku’s, in the same way I struggle to understand ballet. I watched Swan Lake at Sadler’s Wells once and after half an hour of constantly asking my wife what was happening she refused to talk to me for the rest of the performance leaving me completely in the dark. I finish lunch deciding that I’ll probably give poetry writing a miss.

Apparently Bickerton Hill contains half of the lowland heath in Cheshire. Lowland heath is an important habitat for some endangered species and the National Trust are working to restore more of this hill to its natural state.

There is more good airy walking along the ridge line of Bickerton hill to Maiden castle, the remnants of an Iron Age hill fort. History always surrounds us. From Maiden Castle the trail drops into Hether wood and shortly after, the woods and hills are finally left behind to be followed by a couple of hours of dull, uneventful field walking.

There is one highlight on the way. Old St Chads chapel is a grade one listed church in the middle of fields in Tushingham with no vehicular access. The chapel dates from 1689 and is described as a chapel of ease. I would love to have had some ease but unfortunately it was all locked up.

The fields continue and eventually the Llangollen Canal is joined at Willeymoor Lock. My interest is rekindled at the lock, it may also have something to do with the end now being in sight. I like canals and wonder occasionally what it would be like to live on a narrow boat with the freedom to go wherever you wanted to. Narrow boat dwellers do seem to be a rather bohemian bunch however, so I’m not sure I would really fit in. I bet they can all write poetry as well.

The Llangollen canal runs forty six miles, from South Cheshire to Llangollen and includes a bottle testing walk across the
Pontcysyllte Aqueduct a couple of hundred feet above the ground. Today’s walk along the canal is slightly less hair raising with just a few locks, a tunnel and a pleasant canal side tow path to follow with the sound of the birds to keep me company. When I walk through the tunnel I also pass from Cheshire into Shropshire.

At Grindley Brook I stop for a while to admire the collection of locks known as staircase locks, that boats have to negotiate to raise themselves up or down the canal. A short distance from the lock there is a fingerpost pointing the way to ‘Town’ and crossing over a swing footbridge I leave the canal behind and head into Whitchurch.

This final short section is along urban paths and alleyways, passing through housing estates and small open areas until I finally emerge out onto a road just opposite Jubilee Park.

I cross the road, walk into the park and sit myself down by the bandstand. It seems the band that surely must have been booked to welcome my arrival haven’t turned up so I am left to celebrate on my own. It’s been a satisfying walk. I’m pleased to have reacquainted myself with walking long distances over these last three Mondays and happy also to have finally completed a walk that I have long wanted to do.

To see a route map, walk stats and geolocated picture gallery of this walk click ‘Learn more’ below