A Personal Record of my Walks around the World
Keld to Reeth 12 Miles
Keld sits right in the heart of the Yorkshire Dales. If you are a long distance walker, the chances are you have passed by this village on your travels as it lies not only on the Coast to Coast Walk but also the Pennine Way. Keld is a quiet, settled kind of place. Visiting it is a bit like going to your grandma’s house when you were a child, it’s safe, comfortable and reassuringly unchanging. Continue reading “Coast to Coast Keld to Reeth”
Kirkby Stephen to Keld 12 miles
We don’t often consider it, but sleep is a powerful healer. Despite going to bed shattered and aching, this morning I woke up feeling renewed, the throbbing legs were feeling better and I was ready to get moving along the trail again. Like yesterday, we had breakfast with Bob and Alan who had also spent the night in the hostel. Apart from the four of us, there were only two other guests, two lads who I heard coming in in the early hours, drunk, loud and laughing. Denise the warden said they went around the country dressed as Spiderman but their car had broken down so they were stuck in Kirkby Stephen! Sounds like the plot of a road movie to me. Continue reading “Coast to Coast Kirkby Stephen to Keld”
Shap to Kirkby Stephen 20 miles
Had a leisurely breakfast catching up with Bob and Alan who were also staying at New Ing Lodge. Gwen and I left at about 10am and as we stopped off at the Co Op to buy our chocolate supplies for the day my eyes were drawn to the newspaper headline on the billboard outside which read, “Gales batter the Lake District!”. Gwen and I of course didn’t need to be told this news, we had lived (and walked) through it. Continue reading “Coast to Coast Shap to Kirkby Stephen”
Patterdale to Shap 17-18 Miles
Overnight, Gwen and I had talked and we decided that if the wind was still strong to gale force today we wouldn’t be going over Kidsty Pike. Kidsty Pike, at 2,560ft is the highest point on the whole Coast to Coast walk and is on today’s route but the wind, although not as strong as yesterday was still blowing very hard this morning and having been blown off her feet yesterday, Gwen was in no hurry to repeat that experience and indeed it would be dangerous to do so. So over breakfast I had a good look at my newly purchased 1:25000 map and hatched a plan that would take us to Shap via Boredale, under Arthurs pike, onto Divock Moor and then down to Shap via Bampton. Continue reading “Coast to Coast Patterdale to Shap”
Grasmere to Patterdale 8 1/2 Miles
Today turned into a very eventful day for what was meant to be a ‘short’ walking day. Chatted over breakfast in the hostel with Vanetta and Gabrielle and got to know them a bit and then Gwen and I walked into Grasmere for some supplies and some Ginger Bread before setting off at about 10.30am.
Continue reading “Coast to Coast Grasmere to Patterdale”
Rosthwaite to Grasmere 9 1/4 Miles.
Today was the day I got a twenty six year old monkey off my back. Twenty six years ago, crossing from Rosthwaite to Grasmere I got Gary lost on Greenup Edge, it was a wet and cloudy day with zero visibility and after wandering around lost for an hour or two we dropped down into, believe it or not, the Langdale valley. It was a long walk to Grasmere that day and I have never forgotten it. Today though was clear and sunny and I achieved the redemption I was longing for.
Continue reading “Coast to Coast Rosthwaite to Grasmere”
Ennerdale Bridge To Rosthwaite 14 1/2 Miles.
Day two dawns dry but misty. We set off from our B&B about 9.30am and walk through a silent, sleepy Ennerdale Bridge, quiet and still in morning mist. Passing the Fox and Hounds and over the old packhorse bridge we reach the shoreline of Ennerdale Water in no time. The Coast to Coast path follows the South shoreline along the whole length of the Lake and there are a couple of notable features. Robin Hoods chair, topical for us as in two weeks will will be at Robin Hoods Bay, and Anglers Crag, where the path has a bit of an incline, the first of the day to crest the crag itself.
Continue reading “Coast to Coast Ennerdale Bridge to Rosthwaite”
St Bees Head to Ennerdale Bridge 14 Miles.
It’s a rainy start to our adventure. Gwen and I picked up the obligatory pebble off the beach at St Bees to carry to Robin Hoods Bay, I reckon a fair bit of St Bees beach must be at Robin Hoods Bay by now and vice versa. The pack maybe weighs about 10kg and my camera weighs a kilo of that. I’ve done a fair bit of walking lately and spent some time in Nepal last year so have got the packing off to a fine art with some good lightweight gear. After the beach and photo stop at the sign it was off up the steady incline to St Bees Head itself.
Continue reading “Coast to Coast St Bees Head to Ennerdale Bridge”
I’m sitting in the bedroom at our bed and breakfast in St Bees the night before I set off to walk Wainwrights Coast to Coast walk for the second time. Wainwrights popular long distance walk goes from St Bees on the Irish Sea to Robin Hoods Bay on the North Sea, covering three National Parks and about 190 miles of some of the finest walking country in England. Twenty six years ago I was sat, not ten yards away from where I am now, in the building next door (now no longer a B&B but a private house) about to walk the Coast to Coast for the first time, with my mate Gary. Now, twenty six years later I am about to walk it again, this time with my daughter Gwen. Continue reading “Coast to Coast an Introduction”
We walked for twenty three days on our Nepal Trek. The Germans have a word for it, Zielwanderung or ‘destination walking’. Going on a long walk, where you find yourself walking through a landscape and its culture day after day, is good for your mind, body and soul. As each day passes you will find yourself slowly easing away from the tensions that can be part of your normal daily routines of work, life and how to get everything done that needs doing and you find yourself entering into another, far simpler, better world. A world where carrying all your worldly possessions on your back and setting off walking every day suddenly becomes extremely liberating, an almost rebellious act in our busy, materialistic, goal obsessed world. Continue reading “Nepal – Epilogue”
