Namche 11,306ft to Tengboche 12,687ft
The walk from Namche Bazaar to Tynbouche (or Tengboche) is a pure delight every step of the way. The path is good, the views are incredible and there is a real sense at the end of the day that you are entering into the heart of the Khumbu. We set off at about 8am in bright, glorious sunshine and head up through the streets of Namche Bazaar. Leaving the shops and guest houses behind we climb up out of town and reach the trail that leads to Tengboche.
The good dirt path follows the contour of the Dudh Khosi river valley as it winds its way up into the Khumbu valley. The going is good and at first, as you are following the contours of the valley fairly flat. Trekkers, porters and yaks all move along at a fair pace taking in the ever expanding views. Then, about an hour out of Namche Bazaar as you round a corner you come to the view that literally takes your breath away.
Stretching far out in front of you are magnificent mountains all around. Ama Dablam rises majestically on the right, its sharp double Peak reaching to the heavens. In the near distance, along the trail is the Tenzing memorial Chorten, in the middle distance is the objective of our day Tengboche, perched on top of a rise, its monastery clearly visible. But what draws your eye the most is the view far away on the horizon of Mount Everest, jutting out from behind the Nuptse/Lhotse wall with Lhotse visible to its right.
The view stops you in your tracks and you can’t but help linger a while to take it all in. After taking a lot of pictures we walk on to the large Chorten that commentates Sherpa Tenzing Norgay. The path continues contouring the valley and then heads down to the village of Lawishawa where we stop for lunch. Children are everywhere in Nepal and there is a large group, who after a bit of encouragement from Mark sing the Nepali national song Resham Firiri to us.
After lunch we cross the Dudh Khosi again this time on a very long suspension bridge. It’s here that the business end of the day starts, its a climb of about 2,000ft up through the trees to Tynbouche. The gradient is good and once you settle into a rhythm it is an enjoyable and steady walk up through the trees which provide welcome relief and shade from the sun. Progress is slowly made and after a couple of hours you turn a corner, crest a rise and, after passing through a Mani gate by a large Chorten you find yourself in Tynboche.
We check into the Tashi Deleck Lodge and I enjoy a hot chocolate and something to eat. The lodge is opposite the Buddhist monastery that dominates the village and soon afterwards there is the noise of cymbals, horns and chanting as a line of monks head out of the monastery and head up the hill to pray. I couldn’t help thinking of the film ‘The man who would be King’ and how it was like a scene straight out of that.
The lodge was full and over dinner a variety of different languages could be heard lending an international feel to it. It was also very warm in the communal/dining room because of the Yak dung stove that heats it, something that will become familiar over the next few weeks. There is no such luxury however when you leave the dining room, we are now at 12,687ft and the bedrooms are very cold. I fall asleep to the not unpleasant sound of two female French hikers chatting away in their native tongue through the thin plywood that separates the rooms.
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