Sometime during the night the rain had stopped and when we left the bunk room the sun was breaking through and the clouds were beginning to lift away from the mountain tops. We enjoyed breakfast of porridge and banana washed down with plenty of tea and chatted with some of the Americans who we met at dinner last night. Our fellow ‘trampers’ seem to be a fairly international bunch, mostly Americans with a smattering of French, German, Dutch and Australian. As far as I can tell, no Kiwis though. The only other Brits seem to be a doctor who is working in Dunedin and his wife.
After breakfast we have a look around and Gwen finds the path to the helipad which, because it is clear of tree cover reveals our first view of the magnificent snow capped peaks that were hidden by the low cloud of yesterday.
It’s a great foretaste of what lies ahead. It seems every one is keener than us to get on the trail and by the time we are ready to set off there is only ourselves, the doctor couple and a French couple left at Clinton hut. We finish off packing on the picnic benches with the morning sun rising in the sky. When we start walking, no sooner have we turned the corner onto the main trail than we bump into a Weka. It disappears into the foliage before I can get my camera out but it is good to see one of New Zealand’s iconic flightless birds so early into our walk. Day two on The Milford Track continues where day one left off yesterday, level walking on a good path through the beautiful forest.
The rain forest has lost non of its magic, if anything it is even more sublime with the bright morning sun shining through the canopy, dappling the leaves and casting shifting shadows along the path. If day one of the Milford was the starter, days two and three are the main course and I am determined to enjoy the meal. The variety of plant life makes me embarrassed by my lack of knowledge, great bushes of ferns spread out like fans, vines and catkin type plants which I later learn is called old mans beard hang down like cobwebs from the branches of the trees and there is green spongy moss everywhere, on the tree trunks, the rocks and even along the path.
At the three mile mark, the Clinton river divides and we leave the dense cover of the rain forest and can get a good view of the surrounding mountains. We are very fortunate. Although it’s the start of summer there was a big snowfall a few days ago which has left the tops of the mountains and the ridges with a covering of snow making them very photogenic indeed set against the bright blue morning sky. The river splits into the Clinton river North Branch and Clinton river West Branch and we follow the West Branch which will take us eventually into the impressive steep sided Clinton Canyon.
The day is everything I had hoped for weather wise, clear, dry, sunny and the blue skies contrasting against the snow powdered mountain tops is a bonus that we were not expecting. There is some debate that it’s better to walk the Track in the rain as it shows off the innumerable waterfalls that occur in the rain better. I suspect however that this is said by people who have had to walk it in the rain and I am more than happy to forego this pleasure to walk in the dry, with the sun on my back, expansive views all round and clear skies above. And there are still a lot of waterfalls to be seen including Hirere and Saint Quintin falls as well as dozens of others streaming down from the heights like silver ribbons laid down the mountainside and glistening in the sunlight.
As we enter the Clinton valley we leave the rain forest behind for a short while and the terrain becomes more alpine scrub land which means we can see more of the mountains and valley ahead of us. As we move away from the noise of the main Clinton river we become aware of the silence and stillness of our surroundings. There has been no wind to speak of all day and now, in the valley all is quiet and there is a cathedral like atmosphere that almost makes us want to whisper. All that is heard is the distant sound of the waterfalls, the much gentler ripple of the West branch of the river and the constant singing of the birds. It is beautifully serene. We follow the track up the valley roughly following the river, which has slowed and narrowed since splitting and cross over a number of metal bridges put in during the tramping season.
The further we walk into the valley, the narrower and steeper it’s sides become until eventually the Clinton valley morphs into the Clinton Canyon. Its here that the scenery is at its most dramatic. As the canyon narrows, there is an awareness that the valley sides seem to be closing in one you. On both sides of us now the sheer walls of the valley rise up almost vertically thousands of feet to their snow topped summits and ridges and great sheets of water are tumbling down them in torrents. The waterfalls are much closer now and the noise of water crashing down rock sounds like the rumble of a jet engine preparing for take off and is almost as loud.
Although it’s the start of summer there is still a very real danger of avalanches. Unfortunately this means that the Hidden lakes and further up the Mirror lake detours are closed because they come close to the valley sides and it is not worth the risk of suffering what would probably be a fatal injury if a rock hit you on the head. Just past the Hidden lakes detour we enter another forest section following the river.
The river is gentle now and the pebble river bed looks like a mosaic through the crystal clear water. On the river bank the hanging old mans beard, green lichen, tree ferns and Moss covered bark gives the whole scene an otherworldly ‘fern gully’ feel. We stop at Prairie shelter for our lunch and get chatting to the Aussies and the French couple who were able to book on the track last minute due to a cancellation. The six of us have formed the rear guard of the independent trampers and have criss crossed each during the day. Each shelter is covered, has picnic benches and there is also a long drop toilet if required. The sand flies on the track are pretty ferocious little beasts and anytime you stop they tend to come out and eat you alive. I’m glad I bought some mosquito nets with us as it meant we weren’t being eaten whilst eating. The Aussies, well traveled and prepared also had nets but the poor French couple suffered over lunch which was a shame because, being French perhaps, they prepared lunch from scratch, buttering the bread, slicing the cheese and chopping the tomatoes for the salad.
Suitably refreshed, after lunch we continued our way up the Clinton canyon. We have been ascending gradually all day since leaving Clinton hut but from the shelter the incline becomes more pronounced and during the afternoon as we climb up towards Mintaro hut my legs start to feel it. We pass by Pamplona Lodge, the guided walkers hut and then there is another section of valley walking with bridges put in place before we enter the forest again.
On the final approach to Mintaro hut there are a number of rock pools just off the trail and we pass the Aussies enjoying a dip in the afternoon sun. Mintaro hut nestles in the forest at the head of the Clinton canyon and at the foot of Mount Balloon which rises up in a sheer rock face for thousands of feet just across the valley. A couple of weeks prior to us coming I got an e mail saying that a survey had been carried out with the conclusion that should there be an earthquake of a certain magnitude (and there are always earthquakes in New Zealand) Mintaro Hut and everything in it at the time would most likely be buried under a huge rock fall. It gave me the option to cancel but I decided the risk was worth it and have subsequently lived to tell the tale. There were a number of cancellations though, hence the French couple being able to book last minute, and there is a new Mintaro hut being built well out of the danger zone. We settle in and there is a convivial atmosphere in the hut as we have all got to know each other a bit by now. In the evening Clive the hut warden gave us a potted history of the track and another entertaining story about how they had to transport a piano to Quintin Lodge for the owners wife a hundred odd years ago. I’m sure the wardens tell the same story every night, just to a different audience.
Today was truly a day to remember and more than lived up to expectations, the walking and scenery were just magnificent. The snow covered mountain views under clear blue skies were incredible and the forest was just as magical as yesterday. And seeing waterfalls cascading in sheets down the sheer sides of the Clinton canyon is an unforgettable site. The weather was perfect and the whole day being dry and sunny was something special. Before I go to bed I read the weather forecast for tomorrow, cloud and rain.
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