It’s our final day on the Milford Track and there is a sense of anticipation in the air. Today, the forty of us ‘independent trampers’ who over the last four days have all walked together, ate together, talked together and slept under the same roof together will all complete our journey and at last fulfill what for many, including myself, will have been a long held dream and ambition to have walked ‘The Finest Walk in the World’.
Over breakfast, I am wondering if we could possibly have another dry and sunny day to match the previous two. The forecast is promising and the weather itself has to have been one of the highlights of this walk. We were prepared for rain as it does actually rain…a lot… on the track, but walking in the sunshine with fantastic views and dry clothes has been an unexpected pleasure.
Day four follows the Arthur river through the forest and then visits Mackay falls before crossing over an escarpment where the track was blasted and carved out of the rock face by labourers pick axes. It then rejoins the river and goes past Lakes Brown and Ada before arriving at Giant Gate falls and then onto the finish at Sandfly Point. Quite a few of our fellow trampers have already left by the time Gwen and I set off about 8.30am so the track is even quieter than usual. The only way off the track at the end is by boat to Milford Sound. There are only three boats a day from Sandfly Point so the trampers on the early boat have to leave Dumpling hut pretty early to catch the first one. We’re booked on the 3pm boat so I am figuring we will have plenty of time to enjoy our final day on the trail.
As soon as we set off I settle back into my mood of yesterday afternoon. Experiencing the peace of walking through the lush rainforest, totally immersed in the beauty of nature surrounding me and the joy of just being in the present moment, far away from all the normal routines of life. After an hour or so we reach the Boatshed hut, an historic hut that is no longer used and shortly afterwards we cross over to the north shore of the Arthur river on a long suspension bridge.
The river here is wide, clear and perfectly calm and the views from the bridge are just stunning. Looking back, the mountains, still topped with snow are perfectly reflected in the still, clear water. Looking forward, the river seems to form a highway through the steep sides of the valley beckoning us onwards towards the ocean. We stand on the bridge for a while just soaking it all in. Having crossed to the other side of the river we join Mackay creek which soon leads to Mackay waterfall where we take a break.
Next to the falls is Bell rock, a huge rock which is hollow inside. After admiring the falls for a while we continue on the trail which now heads up and over the escarpment. Climbing high above the Arthur river gives us great views over the rainforest to the surrounding mountains. Jules told us last night that you could see where the pick axe marks on the rock changed angles to indicate where the two sets of labourers, cutting the path from both ends met up. I was keen to see this but must have missed it whilst admiring the views. There is some exposure here as the track falls away steeply on the river side so Gwen and I made sure we were well away from the edge.
Once over the escarpment the path winds its way back down to the river. We cross a couple of footbridges and are then back into the greenery and birdsong of the forest with its abundance of ferns, mosses, vines and trees. The Arthur river is never far away though and is often glimpsed through breaks in the foliage. We were making good time and I was conscious that I didn’t want to arrive at the end too early and have a long wait for the boat so we decided to stop and have an early lunch by the river. As soon as we stopped the sandflies arrived but thanks to our nets they didn’t stop us enjoying lunch and the serenity and silence of the river, clear as crystal, slowly moving towards Milford Sound and the Tasman sea.
As we are admiring the view, the Dutch couple arrived, they are the first people we have seen all day and we have a good chat, in English of course. As a native born Englishman I always find it slightly embarrassing just how well so many nationalities seem to be able to speak my language and just how poorly I can speak any of theirs. After lunch there is more forest walking but the path rises and falls a bit and gives views of Lake Ada with its wide sandbanks and shoreline. After another hour or so we arrive at the last ‘big ticket’ item on the Milford Track menu, Giant Gate Falls. A suspension bridge crosses over the river and provides the first view of the waterfall. It’s an impressive site.
One huge torrent of water seems to appear out of nowhere from amongst the forest and ferns and drops straight down Thirty metres into a large, clear pool. We arrive with plenty of time to spare and drop our packs, get something to eat and drink and settle down on the rocks near the pool. The natural show on display is a joy to watch. An endless cataract of water, the volume of which can only be guessed at pours incessantly over the lip of the falls and crashes down, in a huge white plume between large, Moss covered rocks into the round clear pool below it. The pool itself looks like it could have been purposely made as a swimming pool and several people are braving the icy cold water. It’s very busy, ‘touristy’ even and apart from at the huts it’s the most people we have seen together in one place on the trail other than on Mackinnon pass.
It has been yet another dry and sunny day on the track and as I eat one of my last snicker bars, listening to the roar of the falls I can reflect a little on just how good this journey has been. The weather as I have mentioned has been fantastic, far better than we could ever have hoped for. The walking has been, quite simply, sublime. I have wanted to walk this track for decades and it is no exaggeration to say that it did not disappoint in any way and I have enjoyed every metre and every minute of it. Over four days I have not seen a single piece of rubbish or litter on the track. This is not only a testimony to the staff of the Department of Conservation (DOC) but also to the hundreds of walkers who walk this path every week and understand that they are walking in a very special place and we all have a part to play in keeping it that way. The mountain views were just incredible and the dump of snow on the tops before we started just added to the beauty. The birds, rivers, waterfalls and their sounds and smells all added to the whole experience. But out of everything, the one single thing that has given me the most pleasure on this journey is the rainforest. Having the privilege of walking through the ancient, pristine and unadulterated forests of Fiordland is an experience that has enriched me as a person and will live with me forever. To paraphrase Alfred Wainwright, ‘I am a better man for having walked the Milford Track’.
After my reflections I do a bit of exploring around the falls and take far too many pictures and video. I just can’t get over how clear the water is. It is as clear as glass and its bed, four or five feet below the surface is made up of a mosaic of rocks and stones of various shapes and sizes. The river bed here has a greenish tinge to it, I don’t know why and haven’t been able to find out but presume it’s maybe copper deposits from the hills over hundreds of years. Eventually, if we are to catch our boat it’s time to pull ourselves away from Giant Gate Falls and walk the last few celebratory miles to Sandfly Point. The walking is flat through the forest and the river is now widening as it approaches Milford Sound. All too soon we arrive at our final destination, the end of the Milford Track, Sandfly Point.
In the day shelter we meet up with some of our fellow journeymen trampers, all waiting for the 3pm boat. The French and Dutch couple are here along with the English doctor and his wife and the American couple we talked to on the first night. The shelter provides welcome relief from the sandflies but I put my head net on and have a walk down to the jetty to get some pictures.
It’s silent and there is a great view of Mitre peak, the mountain that seems to feature in every picture you are ever likely to see of Milford Sound. From here it’s seen at a slightly different angle that adds interest as it is only those who have walked the track who will see it from this perspective. The boat arrives on time and as I walk down the jetty I take my last steps on the Milford Track, which truly was ‘The Finest Walk in the World’ and step onto the boat that will me back to my every day life.
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