Richmond to Danby Wiske 14 miles
When I first walked this section of the Coast to Coast 26 years ago Gary and I walked (on the recommendation of Wainwright no less) from Richmond to Osmotherley all in one go, twenty three miles on a baking hot day. By the time we got to Osmotherley youth hostel our feet were throbbing from the road walking and we were pretty tired and dehydrated. Today will be a little bit more leisurely, we’re splitting the Vale of York in two and only walking to Danby Wiske. Richmond was quiet and the shops just opening as we pottered about a bit before setting off just as the church bells in Market square chimed for 10am.
The way winds itself down through the cobbled streets to Richmond Bridge where the River Swale is crossed and you are afforded a good view of Richmond Castle, it’s seemingly impregnable walls rising up above the river. The trail follows the south bank of the river for a few miles and is very pleasant walking at the start of the day. As we walked we could hear the sound of a military band drifting in and out on the wind. No doubt it was coming from nearby Catterick Garrison where it sounded like they were practising, perhaps for a pass out parade of new recruits. My thoughts drifted to my own military career, over three decades ago now and a couple of brief visits to the very place where the band were now playing.
Time, as they say waits for no man and life sometimes feels like it flies by. We pass through the pretty village of Colburn, across some fields and not long after cross over the River Swale again and for the final time at Catterick Bridge. A mile later we leave the river, which we have followed from its source in Whitsundale behind us as it turns South but we turn East towards the North Sea. On route to Bolton on Swale there are signs for a cafe and, as coffee and cake was calling we make a diversion to Scorton where a cafe in the village hall provides us with our daily bread, or in our case, cake. Suitably refreshed we get back on track at Bolton on Swale and continue our journey, passing through St Mary’s churchyard and stopping to have a look at the Jenkin memorial.
Henry Jenkin apparently lived to 169 and the stone cutters seemed to have had an off day when carving his memorial, having to squeeze the final words together onto the stone. I expect Henry didn’t mind. As we leave, the church bells chime for one o’clock, what with the bells at Richmond and the Military band it’s been quite a musical day today. A section of field and country lane walking follows, all flat and all pretty nondescript until we land at Danby Wiske and check into the White Swan. A steady day with very little excitement, it was made better by being dry and sunny. In the evening, Bob and Alan turn up and we enjoy a meal and some beers together sat around the wood burner reminiscing about our communal adventure across Northern England.
It’s a bitter sweet evening for us as we know that this will be the last time we will see each other. Bob and Alan will reach the North Sea in three days but we are taking four, so there is a slight sadness as we say our goodbyes. A love of walking brings strangers together in community and companionship and none more so than on a multi day hike when you are meeting people every day for a week or more. And that is something special.
For map and route of this walk click ‘Learn more’ below
