Tour du Mont Blanc Day One – Les Houches to Refuge du Fioux

The storm eventually passed over in the early hours leaving behind a dry but overcast morning. Steve slept right through it all, not a care in the world, that’s an Irishman for you. Although it’s dry now, more thunder and lightning are forecast for the afternoon, just as we will be at our high point on the Col de Voza, so there is some urgency to our efforts to get out of Les Houches and on the trail in order to beat the storm.

Packing for a multi day walk is always a cost/benefit exercise. What is the benefit compared to the weight it will add to your pack. I’m not one for weighing every ounce but including water I end up with about nine kilos that I will be happy enough to carry up and down 10,000m (32,000ft) over 170km (105 miles). I packed at home but last night convinced me to put in my overtrousers as well.

Packing complete, we get ourselves to the official start/finish point for the TMB, a wooden arch outside the tourist office. After the obligatory picture, taken by a tall slim American who had just finished it’s time to ‘pull the trigger’ on our TMB adventure. In twelve days, God willing we will be back here, certainly fitter, possibly slimmer and with a lifetime of stories to tell and memories stored in the walking memory vault to bring a smile to the face whenever they are recalled.

The route follows the main street past the Bellevue cable car station and the place where we had dinner last night, past the campsite and then out of town. Before long we reach our first sign, which takes us up through woodland and across roads that are lined with alpine chalets. Ski lifts are passed and the path becomes a mix of road, track and woodland.

The trajectory is always upwards but the incline is manageable and it’s a good day to warm up, get the legs moving without being too strenuous and settle into the rhythm of multi day walking: Walk, Eat, Sleep, Repeat. As we pass Maison Neuve chairlift it starts to rain, gently at first but then turning into a steady drizzle. My mood starts to lower along with the rain clouds. It’s only day one, we are already higher than Ben Nevis and have more height to climb, it’s raining and thunderstorms are forecast. I really don’t want to be a wet human lightning rod at five and a half thousand feet. I tuck myself away in a barn doorway and put my rain jacket on whilst Steve comes up behind. I then notice that the building next to the barn is actually a little alpine cafe, opening time 11am. I look at my watch, 11.05am. With perfect timing we get ourselves under cover in the lovely, two hundred and fifty year old Les Vielles Luges where we watch the rain come down over a couple of cafe au lait.

Half an hour later the rain stops and we decide to make a move. Caffeine fueled and optimism restored, we head upwards once more on what turns out to be the steepest climbing of the day, a thousand feet over a mile to the Col de Voza. The track winds up through forest, with mountain bike trails crossing it at intervals.

About half way up is Restaurant La Fre Mi. The ski lift route, devoid of trees provides our first real views. The view down is obscured by rain clouds moving slowly through the valley but above us there are hopeful glimpses of blue. 

After a little more climbing up through trees we reach the literal high point of the day, 1,665m (5,462ft) and it’s only a short walk down to the complex of buildings that have been built around the Col de Voza. Thankfully, although still cloudy the rain appears to have blown over taking with it the threat of thunder and lightning so it’s with a sense of relief that I arrive at the Col.

The Col de Voza is a busy little place, there’s a three star hotel, cafe, car park and even a railway, The Mont Blanc Tramway which is highest railway in France. Hikers are well catered for as well. There are toilets and drinking water by the tram station which also has plenty of seating, some in the shade. 

The hard work of the day behind us, Steve and I sit ourselves down on one of the platform seats and enjoy the last of the sandwiches we had brought all the way from England. This is our first col and I know they will get higher and wilder but it does seem rather incongruous to be sitting at a railway station five and a half thousand feet up in the French alps as if waiting for the twelve o’clock from Euston. 

Reflecting on the mornings walk I’m thankful the forecast storm never arrived and that the rain was short lived. The sun is now making guest appearances between the clouds, intermittently warming us. With only a short downhill stretch to our accommodation we’re in no hurry to move and we sit on our bench watching the world go by.  I’m feeling pretty happy with the way day one has gone, my optimism increasing with the temperature.

After lunch Steve and I cross the railway track and walk leisurely down the mile or so to our bed for the night at Refuge du Fioux.

We’re too early to check in but that doesn’t matter. Refuge du Fioux is in a marvellous setting and we sit relaxing in the sunshine on the grass terrace in front of the lodge admiring the view, ice cold drinks in hand. In front of the refuge is a blanket of lush green tree covered slopes leading down the valley to Les Contamines, Mont Joly rising up prominently in the distance.

And to our left are the snow covered peaks of the Aiguille du Gouter, Dome du Gouter and Aiguille de Bionassy. The blue, crenulated Bionassay glacier spreads down the mountainside, stretching icy tentacle fingers into the valley. 

Day one is done and we are feeling pretty happy. If the other eleven are like this, we’ll be in hiking heaven. 

Route Map, Walk Stats, Geolocated Picture Gallery and 3D Flyover Video Below.

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