For the last week we’ve been in the heart of the mountains. Walking along narrow rugged trails surrounded by snow topped pinnacled peaks with precipitous drops. We’ve gazed in awe at long serrated ridges with sprawling ice blue glaciers creeping down from the heights. It’s been a full on, exciting and immersive mountain experience. The contrast with today’s walk from La Fouly to Champex is stark, the mountains are replaced by meadows and the sound of cow bells replaces the roaring rivers. We will be walking next to the mountains, with glimpses of them but we will not be walking in them.
That said, there is much to commend today’s walk. Walking in sunshine along a verdant Swiss alpine valley, passing by quaint chalets and villages and climbing through forests with clean pine scented air is not exactly waiting in the rain for the no 57 bus on your daily commute so there is plenty to enjoy along this section which is often unfairly seen as a stop gap in between the good stuff.
After leaving Gite La Fouly we stop at the well stocked supermarket to grab some supplies, a nice danish pastry in my case, and fill up with water at the village fountain. There seems to be much talk on the forums about water on the Tour du Mont Blanc, both the quality and the quantity of it. Regarding quality, this is Europe, not Nepal or Africa. Steve and I drank copious amounts of the stuff over two weeks and suffered no ill effects so unless you are particularly sensitive I don’t see any need to treat it or filter it. Regarding quantity, every few miles there seemed to be a supply, either a water trough or an Auberge/Refuge so we were never short although I have read that in particularly dry summers the troughs can dry up.
Not long after leaving La Fouly we cross the river Dranse de Ferret for the first time, there will be two more crossings of it before the day is done. Having traversed the Italian Val Ferret high up from the valley floor we are now walking down the middle of the Swiss Val Ferret through small hamlets and woodland, criss crossing its river.
After half an hour or so we take a break and Kyle and Jo, the American couple who we first met way back at Refuge Nant Borrant catch up with us. They had also stopped at Gite la Fouly last night, the fourth night we have been together in the same lodge. They are also stopping at Gite Bon Abri tonight so we decide to walk together for the day, to enjoy each others company and get to know each other. Walking, particularly multi day walking can be very social. Over days or weeks you bump into the same people, on the same journey, enjoying the same views and accommodation. And because you share a common interest, a love for walking and the outdoors there is an automatic affinity and bonds are quickly formed.
The trail works its way down along the valley, in and out of woodland, generally following the path of the river. There are occasional glimpses of snow peaked mountains through the trees to remind us that we are still in the Alps.
At the end of one section of woodland we come across a bare chested wild man of the woods character, waving his arms around and mentioning something about a wolf which gets our attention. He then just happens to mention that there was a place to eat and drink just along the trail, pointing us in the direction.
Sure enough, ten minutes later we arrive at La Kabana, a pop up style cafe/hut and the four of us enjoy a cold drink and bite to eat, shaded from the sun under colourful umbrellas. Shortly afterwards, the ‘wild man of the woods’, arrives, talks to the staff and I realise it was a bit of a ploy to get us to his cafe rather than taking a short cut along the road. Not that any ploy was needed as the cafe had some lovely cakes and pastries and was situated in the perfect spot.
From the cafe we pass through the sleepy village of Praz de Fort and make our second crossing of the Dranse de Ferret. The trail follows the river and the walking is easy along flat grass meadows, passing chalets and hamlets. Rolling green valleys, dotted with trees lead the eyes upward to high snow patched mountains rising on both sides of the valley. When we reach Issert we cross the river for the final time.
After walking along the flat valley floor all day, we are now faced with 1,500ft of climbing up the valley side all the way to the finish. The climbing initially comes as a shock to my thigh muscles which have had a day off so far today but the gradient is even so a rhythm can be set and the path is good so height is quickly gained walking through the woodland that covers the valley sides. To add a little quirkiness to the end of our day the trail we are on has been adopted as the Sentier des Champignons (Mushroom trail) and all along the path are quaint little wooden carvings of forest creatures, birds and mushrooms.
It’s good to be out of the sun and walking in the shade of the trees and the little wooden creatures come and go as we chat along the trail, the scent of pine filling the air. Towards the top we come across the perfect picnic stop with benches, a view through the trees all the way down to to Orsières in the valley and a beautifully carved stone water fountain with a brass spout.
After a rest to rehydrate and admire the view we tackle the final section through the forest which ends unceremoniously at a busy road which we follow into the lakeside town of Champex. It’s been another hot and sunny day and after the exertions of the forest track four hot and sweaty hikers plonk themselves down on a bench looking out onto Lac de Champex. Champex has a rather touristy feel and I think how strange it is to be sitting by a lake nearly five thousand feet above sea level surrounded by ice cream stalls, gift shops, hotels and car parks.
Jo, being young and adventurous goes for a swim in the lake. I must admit it does look rather inviting, the sun is glistening off its rippling surface and the clear blue waters look refreshingly cold. Not being one for wild swimming, in fact any swimming, I resist the temptation and leave it to Jo to tell us how invigorating it was.
Our accommodation is still over a mile away on the other side of town so we walk along the lake shore through the busy town with its tourists and restaurants before heading out the other side and finally arriving at Gite Bon Abri hot, sticky, tired and ready for a shower and a cold beer.
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Lovely (if a little strenuous). Imagine it covered in snow!
I would think most of it, except the valley is under about twenty feet of snow by now with people skiing happily down it.
Hi Jim – parts of that walk look a lot like the “Comet Line” that crosses the foothills of the Pyrenees – a walk I did last year with a friend. Just as a matter of interest, can you do just sections of the TMB? Say for 2 or three days? Kind regards and happy trekking! Dave
Thanks Dave. I think you can do as much or as little of it as you want in whatever direction you want, there aren’t any rules or permits, accommodation would be the deciding factor as that tends to be booked up in the summer. Happy New Year, and good health in 2024 😀
Another fabulous stage. You really are tempting me with this one! Mel
It was a good walk Mel, and I would imagine different to anything in Australia 😀