The walk over the Coll de Síller begins in the attractive tourist resort of Port de Pollença with its bars, restaurants and sun worshipers and ends in the smaller but equally busy resort of Cala Sant Vicenç with its bars, restaurants and sun worshipers. In between there is a slice of Mallorca that would be alien to most of the bikini clad beach dwellers who tend not to venture beyond the resorts. It’s only a short walk but can be lengthened if you decide to return over the pass after spending time in Cala Sant Vicenç. It holds interest for walkers because of the views along the Cavall Bernat ridge and down to Port de Pollença and the way, in only a mile, it connects ‘holiday resort’ Mallorca with a bit of ‘walking’ Mallorca.
We start on the pine walk near the marina at Port de Pollença where the land meets the sea and the morning sun is reflecting softly off the glistening waters of the Mediterranean. Yachts and super yachts of the wealthy are moored up here, some of them for sale if you have euro millions to spare. The walk passes by sea front hotels and then turns inland heading up the main street, Carrer de Joan XXIII with its Spar, Burger King and estate/boat agent windows. So far, so urban. We also have a mission to carry out today, but more of that later.
Past the bus station and over the dual carriageway things start to become more attractive and suburban and the busyness and traffic noise of the town starts to fade away. Residential homes mix with holiday villas, you can tell the homes by the well cared for gardens along the aptly named Carrer de les Roses. At the end of the road we reach the open countryside and Talaia Vella, the first high point on the Serra del Cavall Bernat ridge is ahead of us, its sun bleached, bush speckled hillside rising upwards towards its sharp rocky top. A rusted iron ‘Siller’ signposts the way to the pass. The track passes a couple more villas and ends at a iron gate where the footpath and the uphill walking starts.
The footpath is typically Mallorcan, loose stones and rocks winding up through the hard spiky foliage with small miniature rock cairns intermittently marking the way. The gradient is easy enough and the footpath only lasts half a mile before the top is reached. This is just as well as Mrs E has decided to wear her sandals and summer dress as she wants to have a paddle in the sea when we get to Cala Sant Vicenç. A German couple, fully kitted out for serious hiking pass us and I see them eyeing her up and down, whether in awe or incredulity, I’m not sure.
The path leads gently upwards and before long we are standing on top of the pass. With a high point of 262ft it’s a modest achievement but it has worn off our breakfast, got us out into the fresh, OK, hot air and there are pleasant views down the valley to Port de Pollença and the bay and surrounding us is the bone dry, pale rocky landscape of rural Mallorca.
At the top there is a building, perhaps an electricity or water station. Whatever it is, it requires vehicle access so the path down to Cala Sant Vicenç is gravel, then concrete, then tarmac which makes the walking easier.
At a roundabout I make a small diversion to a viewpoint marked on the map and get my first glimpse of the bay and Cala Sant Vicenç. The walking from here is downward and straightforward and as the road bends around the bay gorgeous views opens up.
The turquoise blue waters appear through the pine trees and are so clear that the sea bed is seen, its contrasting shades of sand, seaweed and rock shimmering up through the water. We continue on down the tree lined track and arrive at the lovely cove of Cala Carbo just around the bay from the main beach.
Its rocky not sandy and has a functional, rather rustic feel to it with launching ramps for boats and flat concrete landing areas. There are no bars and only a few people here which makes it perfect to sit for a while enjoying the sunshine and sound of the sea lapping in the cove.
Eventually we wander down the final few hundred metres into Cala Sant Vicenç where we can complete our mission. The father in law used to cycle a lot in Mallorca but has not been able to come for many years. So we find a space at his favourite beachside bar, the Bar Cala Molins, get ourselves an ice cold drink and send him a picture to remind him of days gone by.
It’s been an unseasonably hot day for October and we are glad of the shade and rest. After another drink, a bite to eat and a bit of people watching, Mrs E enjoys her paddle in the sea and we take the lazy route back to Port de Pollenca on an air conditioned bus.
To see a route map and geolocated pictures of this walk please click on ‘Learn more’ below
It is always wonderful to be away from the masses of tourists and experiencing the wide open spaces and views. Enjoyable walk by the looks of your images.
Thank you Suzanne, yes I love the walking in Mallorca
Beautiful colours, specially the water
Thank you Ruth, yes I loved the colour of the water in the bay.
Sorry to be so late here, Jim, but I thoroughly enjoyed my early morning stroll with you. Every day should start like this. What a lovely spot. I never made it to the north of Mallorca.
Thanks Jo, glad your trip home went ok, always nice to catch up with family when they don’t live nearby 😍
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