Nepal – Lukla to Phakding

Lukla 9,283ft to Phakding 8,701ft

Up at 6.30am. A cup of tea was followed by finishing off packing the rucksack. The contents of my rucksack will be my sole personal possessions for the next four weeks, I find the simplicity of this quite liberating, like being freed from the trappings of materialism. Left my trainers and a spare fleece behind and reckon it weighs about 9kg which should be OK. Sarita, the smiley guest house owner blesses us with a Hindu blessing before we leave and places the traditional red mark, the Bindi, on our foreheads and a flower in our hair.

Religion and spirituality are always close to the surface and integral to culture and life in Nepal, another difference from the West, where we can think our possessions satisfy our needs, but know in our hearts they don’t. Hindu is the predominant religion of Kathmandu, Buddhism will take over when we get into the mountains. I am a spiritual man, albeit from a different faith, a man ‘Made Complete in Christ’ but I have due respect for the people and culture that I am in and have no objection to the kindness and respect offered to me by strangers. And Sarita certainly is a kind and gentle host.

Domestic departures has the feel of a refugee camp about it, nobody wants to be there and everyone wants to be somewhere else. Bad weather at Lukla, not untypical, has delayed all flights. Steve uses some of his Irish charm to aid us through some almighty queues and I see money changing hands between some of the bigger tour group leaders and airline staff to get their clients onto a plane. Got away eventually and after half an hour or so in the Twin Otter with intermittent views through the clouds of the Himalayas we had what I would describe as a ‘firm’ landing at Tenzing Hillary airport, often described as the ‘most dangerous airport in the World’.

Porters were touting for business as we collected our rucksacks and it was the only place in the world where I have had my baggage receipt checked against my baggage before I was allowed to claim it. Stopped for tea at the lodge right next to the airport before we set off. Had a snickers and some tea cake type things very kindly made for us by Sarita and then we were off up the trail. With my first step I have already broken my own record for walking at height as we are already 9,000ft above sea level. I didn’t feel too great when I got up but as soon as we started walking I started feeling better and got into my stride.

We left Lukla about 12.30pm and effectively walked downhill to Phakding arriving at about 4pm. Crossing the suspension bridge to enter the small village I crossed the Dudh Khosi for what was the first, but certainly will not be the last time. A three bed room, en-suite bathroom with western toilet, shower and warm water for 750 rupees, that’s 250 rupees each and that’s the grand total of £1.80. That will do nicely thank you. Dene, Al and myself share the room and Steve, Dan and Mark sleep in tents. Dinner in the lodge consisted of mushroom soup and a cheese and ham toastie and I turn in at about 8.40pm. I haven’t seen many clocks in Nepal and the ones I have all seem to tell a different time. I guess knowing what the time is doesn’t matter to much here. I Fall asleep listening to the Dudh Khosi river roaring past us outside, on its long journey down to the Bay of Bengal. A big day tomorrow, 2,500ft climb in the thinning air to Namche Bazaar. 

For map and route of this walk click ‘Learn more’ below