Events elsewhere mean many Canadians are vacationing at home this year and it seems half of them have chosen to visit Banff and Lake Louise at the same time as us. Consequently, I made sure to call at Lake Louise Ski Resort yesterday and secure our tickets for the 8.15am bus stopping at Moraine Lake first before going on to Lake Louise. This way we still get to see both of these extremely popular and beautiful lakes but can take our time at Lake Louise and walk the Lake Agnes Tea House Trail, a walk I’ve had my eye on for some time.
Whilst we were in Alberta we were hoping to meet up and maybe hike with Maggie and Richard, who many of you will know from monkeystale and live in nearby Calgary. Unfortunately they were off on their own adventures but I’m grateful to Maggie for providing me with a wealth of useful local information before our trip.
*click on any image to open in new window*
Stepping off the bus at Moraine Lake clouds are hovering over the peaks and the sky is a sheet of slate grey. We have a look around and Mish goes for a coffee while I head up the ambitiously named rock pile trail, in reality a short walk up the rocky moraine at the head of the lake leading to several viewpoints. The clouds mean the full glory of the famous ‘twenty dollar view’ so named as it was on the back of Canadian $20 notes through the seventies is hidden away but the sky is lightening slightly and the startlingly gorgeous turquoise colour of the lake is starting to shimmer just as the canoes start to venture out.
Back on the bus it isn’t long before we arrive at Lake Louise. Both Moraine Lake and Lake Louise are situated within Banff National Park which is Canada’s first and oldest National Park, established in 1885. Despite the crowds there is an advantage to our visiting Canada this year. The Canada Strong Pass, an initiative to boost national pride and encourage domestic tourism means that entry to all the National Parks is free throughout the summer, which coincides nicely with our stay. Go Canada!
The clouds are still spoiling the show somewhat at Lake Louise but as I look out across the lake I recognise the gorgeous view that I’ve seen and read about, the view that made me want to visit this place. If you turn 180° you are confronted by another view however, a building resembling the secret police headquarters of an Eastern Bloc country during the Cold War perhaps, or a prison. This blot on the natural landscape is the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise hotel which I didn’t know existed until researching our trip.
The presence of a hotel here and its size with 539 rooms reflects the fact that Lake Louise, although looking remote and wild in the pictures is in reality only a few miles away from the Trans Canada Highway, bringing it within easy reach of hundreds of thousands of people. It’s still beautiful, just don’t look behind you.
After exploring the lakeside we leave most of the crowds behind and start up the trail to Lake Agnes. It’s a steady and sustained climb through the forest on a long straight stretch of good path with occasional glimpses through the trees of the surrounding mountains.
After a while we reach our first bend. The view opens up a little more and we get a good look at Fairview Mountain rising up across Lake Louise which is now some way below us. The flat aqua blue surface of the lake contrasting nicely with vertical green pines.
After this first long zig of path there is a shorter zag which heads upwards on much the same gradient before bending round to arrive at Mirror Lake.
Mirror Lake is fairly small and fairly round, it’s USP is not so much the lake itself but the large vertical rock tower that rises up directly opposite it. This is The Big Beehive and in the right conditions it reflects beautifully off the lake. The Big Beehive is named because… well you’ve guessed it.
Unfortunately there are no reflections today but even without them the lake is in a lovely spot, nestled underneath the giant rock and surrounded by forest, it has a calming stillness to it. And the weather is rapidly improving with the clouds breaking up, blue skies appearing and the sun shining through.
The final section of trail up to Lake Agnes is rougher than we have so far experienced but this is compensated by the views which are increasing as the tree cover thins out.
The final climb to Lake Agnes is up a wooden staircase which has been attached to a steep crag to make life easier for hikers. There is a picturesque waterfall that tumbles down the rock face and feeds into Mirror Lake, now way below us, and then continues down into Lake Louise. Oddly I couldn’t find a name for this stream, apparently doesn’t have one.
Climbing the staircase the path goes round the tea house and we arrive at a quite superb view. A crystal clear Lake Agnes sits in the middle of a rock amphitheater, encircled by the towering peaks of The Devil’s Thumb, Mount Whyte, Mount Niblock and Mount Saint Piran which merge to form a huge vertiginous surrounding wall to the hanging valley. A green sloping carpet of pines rises upwards from the lake. All of this is reflected in the clear waters as the sun has come out to welcome our arrival. It’s one of natures cathedrals and is a truly magnificent site.
After getting over the wow factor we manage to find an unoccupied bench furthest away from the tea house and settle down to relax, eat and admire the view.
Lake Agnes Tea House is an attractive wooden lodge on the lakeshore that has been serving tea and refreshments at this location since 1905 and is a big part of the attraction of this hike. It’s very busy though and the queue is long and slow, so despite being English we resist the temptation of afternoon tea and enjoy our pole position on the lake.
All good things must come to an end and eventually we tear ourselves away from Lake Agnes and head back down the trail having enjoyed a mighty fine hike in the Canadian Rockies and views that will stay with us forever.
Route Map with Geolocated Pictures, Walk Stats and 3D Flyover Video Below
All this on Maggie’s doorstep, hey, Jim? And the popularity that goes with it, but you had a great hike to Agnes xx
Yes, and a lovely place it is indeed, I think it’s gets pretty cold in the winter though!
There are not many hikes that offer a beautiful lake and a Tea House when you get to the top! The hike to Lake Agnes Tea House was pretty high on our Canadian wish list when we visited Lake Louise, but we never made it due to a shortage of time. The lake and surrounding area are truly stunning! Thanks for sharing, and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx
Thank you Aiva! It’s a shame you couldn’t do the tea house walk but trying to fit everything in on holiday is always a problem. And the surrounding area is really beautiful 😍
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I guess all the National parks were quite busy this summer, because of the free pass they decided to give out.
I see the trail was pretty busy, what month did you visit the area? We are planning to hike the Plain of six glaciers, maybe next summer. I was wondering how busy the trail was.
We were there at the beginning of August Christie. I think they have extended Canada Strong Pass through the winter so you may be lucky and it stays for next summer. As with most tourist places the further you get away from the main attraction the less crowded it is. The Lake Agnes hike is I would think the most popular and accessible so it was pretty busy. I would think the six glaciers would be less so. If I was ever there again I think I would hike up to the Little Beehive and Big Beehive as the views from them look great. Maggie from monkeystale would be able to advise you better.
Our daughter hiked the Little Beehive last summer.. needless to say what a view! Yes, maybe we’ll cross paths with Maggie, will see if the stars align😊
Beautiful views as a reward for that hike, especially the reflections in Agnes Lake 😀 The colour of Moraine Lake in particular is stunning too!
Thanks Sarah, yes it’s a lovely spot 😀
Magnificent! This walk is featured in my National Geographic 100 Hikes of a Lifetime, one of my long term hiking projects, but we chose the Plain of Six Glaciers Teahouse instead on our family trip. We arrived at 6:30am to secure a parking space. The crowds soon thin out once you get away from the stunning lake. There were so many wedding parties taking pictures. 🙂
That’s funny Tony, Christie was asking about the six glaciers in the comments above! I think I might take a look at that book 😀
Its brilliant. There’s no way I have time left to complete them all, but I will certainly have fun trying. 🙂
PS. It was that book that persuaded me to try the Arctic Circle Trail.
I think at our age goals and ambitions are more important than when younger, they keep us moving, motivated and alive
Beautiful!! This one is on my list.
Thank you Diana, it’s closer to you than it is to me! 😀
I would put my hand up to do that hike any day. Stunning images and you’ve highlighted some areas for a potential visitor to concentrate on.
Thanks Suzanne, it is a good one with great views for comparatively little effort 😀
Beautiful memories! On our first visit to the Canadian Rockies in 2007 we hiked first to Plain of the Six Glaciers then along to the Agnes Lake trail so took in two tea houses. On our second visit in 2017 we did – not quite so much! The difference between turning 50 and 60.
Glad I could bring back some memories Anabel, the plain of six glaciers has been mentioned a bit in these comments 😀
I’m so glad the skies opened up for you at Lake Agnes. I was wondering if you were going to show another view of Lake Louise with blue skies when you got back to the bottom. But you did capture their gorgeous colours. Thanks for the shout out 😊 Maggie
Thanks Maggie, unfortunately the blue skies had gone when we got back to Lake Louise, I did get an arty one with some reeds. Lake Agnes was great though! Has the snow arrived?
In the mountains it has, but not enough to ski, and too much to hike. So we left, we’re in Chile 😊
There can’t be many countries left Maggie!
There are still plenty 😊
Oh my goodness! That is simply gobsmacking! Such beauty!! Thanks for the inspiration. Mel
Thanks Mel, my pleasure 😀
We’ve hiked to the Lake Agnes Tea House a few times. It’s one of our favourite hikes in Banff. Thanks for bringing back fond memories. Your pictures are beautiful. Glad to hear the clouds cleared.
Thanks Linda, I’m glad I could bring back some memories, Canada certainly is a beautiful country 😀
Lake Agnes looks stunning, what a place. I like the idea that despite being English and normally queueing for tea and cake, you were the clever English who took supplies of such and therefore could break away and still be English in that landscape, brilliant stuff
Thanks Steve, yes it is stunning, everything is on a grander scale in the Rockies. Queuing isn’t my favourite pastime! And I had read that the queue is always long at the tea house unless you get there very early