Moraine Lake and Lake Agnes Tea House Trail

Events elsewhere mean many Canadians are vacationing at home this year and it seems half of them have chosen to visit Banff and Lake Louise at the same time as us. Consequently, I made sure to call at Lake Louise Ski Resort yesterday and secure our tickets for the 8.15am bus stopping at Moraine Lake first before going on to Lake Louise. This way we still get to see both of these extremely popular and beautiful lakes but can take our time at Lake Louise and walk the Lake Agnes Tea House Trail, a walk I’ve had my eye on for some time.

Whilst we were in Alberta we were hoping to meet up and maybe hike with Maggie and Richard, who many of you will know from monkeystale and live in nearby Calgary. Unfortunately they were off on their own adventures but I’m grateful to Maggie for providing me with a wealth of useful local information before our trip.

Stepping off the bus at Moraine Lake clouds are hovering over the peaks and the sky is a sheet of slate grey. We have a look around and Mish goes for a coffee while I head up the ambitiously named rock pile trail, in reality a short walk up the rocky moraine at the head of the lake leading to several viewpoints. The clouds mean the full glory of the famous ‘twenty dollar view’ so named as it was on the back of Canadian $20 notes through the seventies is hidden away but the sky is lightening slightly and the startlingly gorgeous turquoise colour of the lake is starting to shimmer just as the canoes start to venture out.

Back on the bus it isn’t long before we arrive at Lake Louise. Both Moraine Lake and Lake Louise are situated within Banff National Park which is Canada’s first and oldest National Park, established in 1885. Despite the crowds there is an advantage to our visiting Canada this year. The Canada Strong Pass, an initiative to boost national pride and encourage domestic tourism means that entry to all the National Parks is free throughout the summer, which coincides nicely with our stay. Go Canada!

The clouds are still spoiling the show somewhat at Lake Louise but as I look out across the lake I recognise the gorgeous view that I’ve seen and read about, the view that made me want to visit this place. If you turn 180° you are confronted by another view however, a building resembling the secret police headquarters of an Eastern Bloc country during the Cold War perhaps, or a prison. This blot on the natural landscape is the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise hotel which I didn’t know existed until researching our trip.

The presence of a hotel here and its size with 539 rooms reflects the fact that Lake Louise, although looking remote and wild in the pictures is in reality only a few miles away from the Trans Canada Highway, bringing it within easy reach of hundreds of thousands of people. It’s still beautiful, just don’t look behind you.

After exploring the lakeside we leave most of the crowds behind and start up the trail to Lake Agnes. It’s a steady and sustained climb through the forest on a long straight stretch of good path with occasional glimpses through the trees of the surrounding mountains.

After a while we reach our first bend. The view opens up a little more and we get a good look at Fairview Mountain rising up across Lake Louise which is now some way below us. The flat aqua blue surface of the lake contrasting nicely with vertical green pines.

After this first long zig of path there is a shorter zag which heads upwards on much the same gradient before bending round to arrive at Mirror Lake.

Mirror Lake is fairly small and fairly round, it’s USP is not so much the lake itself but the large vertical rock tower that rises up directly opposite it. This is The Big Beehive and in the right conditions it reflects beautifully off the lake. The Big Beehive is named because… well you’ve guessed it.

Unfortunately there are no reflections today but even without them the lake is in a lovely spot, nestled underneath the giant rock and surrounded by forest, it has a calming stillness to it. And the weather is rapidly improving with the clouds breaking up, blue skies appearing and the sun shining through.

The final section of trail up to Lake Agnes is rougher than we have so far experienced but this is compensated by the views which are increasing as the tree cover thins out.

The final climb to Lake Agnes is up a wooden staircase which has been attached to a steep crag to make life easier for hikers. There is a picturesque waterfall that tumbles down the rock face and feeds into Mirror Lake, now way below us, and then continues down into Lake Louise. Oddly I couldn’t find a name for this stream, apparently doesn’t have one.

Climbing the staircase the path goes round the tea house and we arrive at a quite superb view. A crystal clear Lake Agnes sits in the middle of a rock amphitheater, encircled by the towering peaks of The Devil’s Thumb, Mount Whyte, Mount Niblock and Mount Saint Piran which merge to form a huge vertiginous surrounding wall to the hanging valley. A green sloping carpet of pines rises upwards from the lake. All of this is reflected in the clear waters as the sun has come out to welcome our arrival. It’s one of natures cathedrals and is a truly magnificent site.

After getting over the wow factor we manage to find an unoccupied bench furthest away from the tea house and settle down to relax, eat and admire the view.

Lake Agnes Tea House is an attractive wooden lodge on the lakeshore that has been serving tea and refreshments at this location since 1905 and is a big part of the attraction of this hike. It’s very busy though and the queue is long and slow, so despite being English we resist the temptation of afternoon tea and enjoy our pole position on the lake.

All good things must come to an end and eventually we tear ourselves away from Lake Agnes and head back down the trail having enjoyed a mighty fine hike in the Canadian Rockies and views that will stay with us forever.    

Route Map with Geolocated Pictures, Walk Stats and 3D Flyover Video Below