Ennerdale Bridge To Rosthwaite 14 1/2 Miles.
Day two dawns dry but misty. We set off from our B&B about 9.30am and walk through a silent, sleepy Ennerdale Bridge, quiet and still in morning mist. Passing the Fox and Hounds and over the old packhorse bridge we reach the shoreline of Ennerdale Water in no time. The Coast to Coast path follows the South shoreline along the whole length of the Lake and there are a couple of notable features. Robin Hoods chair, topical for us as in two weeks will will be at Robin Hoods Bay, and Anglers Crag, where the path has a bit of an incline, the first of the day to crest the crag itself.
The path isn’t particularly good underfoot along the first half of the Lake, I suspect it’s only frequented by fellow Coast to Coasters but after Red Beck the walking becomes smoother. At about midday we reach the end of Ennerdale Water and cross the concrete causeway that spans the River Liza to join the forest track that will take us all the way to Black Sail Hut. Stopping at Gillerthwaite hostel to use the facilities, I notice that the YHA appear to be leaving part of it’s hostels open so that walkers can make a cup of tea and buy a cake, leaving the money in an honesty jar. About four miles of forest track follows, not unpleasant with the sound of birds for company and good progress is made as it is flat walking on the forest road. As you head up the valley the views of Ennerdale start to open up and glimpses of Pillar through the trees give a tantalising foretaste of things to come. Just before arrival at Black Sail, the forest is left behind and Ennerdale, with the magnificent Great Gable at its head is laid out before you.
Black Sail Hut, like Gillerthwaite is open so a cup of tea and Ginger cake provide the perfect rest stop. At Black Sail, we meet up with a mother and daughter, Vanetta and Gabrielle who are also doing the C to C so no doubt will bump into them along the way. Shortly after Black Sail comes the first proper incline of the walk so far, the walk up Loft Beck.
The Beck itself was in full flow after the rain of the last couple of days and the ground was sodden. The path is good however and climbs steadily, to the right of the Beck itself, up the 700ft or so to the top of the pass. Like Dent yesterday, the higher we climbed the stronger the wind became and by the time we reached top it was very strong. At the top of Loft Beck we take a long look back all the way down Ennerdale towards the Coast and the route that we had taken over the last two days and then turning around, we head off literally and metaphorically into the heart of the Lake District.
I was a bit surprised (its April) to see a large patch of frozen snow at the top of Loft Beck which meant we had to kick steps up the final twenty metres or so before we were back onto grass. The path follows the contours round the head of the valley and then joins the straight, well made path which leads all the way down to Honister slate mine and another tea stop. After Honister the trail heads down the old Honister road towards Seatoller. On the way down the valley the weather cleared up, the sun came out and there were good views up the Seathwaite valley towards Great End, snow still glistening in the sun from its summit.
After Seatoller the path enters Johnny’s wood and then joins the banks of the infant river Derwent, which it follows, rather closely at times to Longthwaite Youth Hostel. After the Hostel it’s another ten minutes across farmers fields to Rosthwaite and our accommodation for the night. We arrive at Rosthwaite at 6.15pm. Carrying our own gear, and having only just started the walk, today was a long and tiring day. But we’ve got two shorter days coming up and the idea is that we’ll be ‘walking into fitness’. We spend the evening and eat in the Scafell Hotel, a favourite of many years ago from when I used to stay at the Youth Hostel, although it’s certainly had a makeover since the 1980’s.
For map and route details of this walk click ‘learn more’ below
