What they undertook to do they brought to pass;
All things hang like a drop of dew Upon a blade of grass
William Butler Yeats
Ambitions and goals are important things in life. They give you purpose and hope. They keep you focused, moving forward and concentrating on the future instead of dwelling on the past or being indolent in the present. I have a fair number of goals, targets and projects or more poetically, dreams, hopes and aspirations. There are things I want to see and experience, walks I want to complete and places I want to visit before I go off to rest with my ancestors. And one long standing project is to stand on top of the highest points in the five nations that make up the British Isles, England, Scotland, Wales, Ireland and Northern Ireland.
I’ve climbed Ben Nevis twice. The second time with my daughter on her twentieth birthday after completing the West Highland Way. It was a dry and clear mid summers day and after seven days of solid walking we took it in our stride enjoying magnificent views from the top and followed it up with a celebratory dinner and a few beers in The Ben Nevis Inn.
I’ve ascended Scafell Pike three times. My walking journal reminds me that on my first ascent, the 1st March 1988 my mate Andy and I were slogging up Grains Gill when we met Chris Bonington. We were heading for England’s highest peak and the legendary mountaineer was off to climb central gully on Great End which was nicely full of compacted snow.
Yr Wyddfa/Snowdon, the nearest to my home I’ve been up six times. I’ve walked it on my own, with friends, in groups and with both my son and daughter on separate occasions. I remember drinking tea in the old concrete bunker that used to be the summit cafe and the days when you didn’t have to form a queue to reach the summit trig.
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The two remaining mountains, one in the north and one in the south of Ireland had eluded me. The small matter of the Irish Sea making logistics of getting to them more problematic. A road trip to Ireland in 2018 provided the opportunity to climb Carrauntoohil on what was a gloriously sunny day. You can read about that walk here if you like.
So that just left Slieve Donard, the highest mountain in Northern Ireland or the north of Ireland if you prefer. And a visit to friends in Belfast last month finally gave me the chance of completing my mission.
The drive to the coastal town of Newcastle from Belfast takes about an hour and there is no mistaking Slieve Donard, it dominates the view south from the road into town. I park up in Donard car park which is free, has toilets and is situated right at the start of the walk. The weather couldn’t be better, dry, sunny and clear, with just enough cloud cover and breeze to keep things cool.
The route goes through Donard park, passing a quite magnificent Oak tree and then upwards through woodland to Donard Bridge, built in 1835. I cross the bridge and a stone laid track heads up through the thick woods of Donard forest following the Glen river. There are several impressive waterfalls along this stretch and noting the warning signs about dangerous overhangs I tread carefully to the waters edge to admire the sight and sound of tons of crystal clear water pouring down over huge rock slabs and swirling in rock pools.
The path joins a forest road and crosses the river again at Glen River Bridge. These bridges were built by the Annesley Family, who owned and managed the land here from the 1700’s until it was bought by the National Trust in the 1990’s. I continue upwards with the river now back on my left side, still very picturesque with smaller cascades now and a gentler pace.
Some tree felling seems to have recently taken place which has churned up the path into a rocky, muddy mess. Looking behind me though, the long graceful curve of Dundrum Bay has started to come into view with lines of whitecap waves queuing up to roll rhythmically onto the wide Sandy beach.
The rough terrain doesn’t last long and soon turns into a very pleasant gravel track, layered and lined by logs that leads upwards through ramrod straight Scots pines. Bridge number three is met but not crossed and height continues to be gained along an excellent and delightful stone laid and gorse lined track surrounded by lush mature woodland and shrubbery that was planted in the 1920’s.
Eventually the forest is left and I can view the open hillside ahead of me. I take a break to get my bearings and admire the scenery. The Glen River is still dancing and tumbling over large, millennia smoothed rocks and high up to my left are the steep northern slopes of Slieve Donard.
Across the river I see a building known as the Ice House. Originally used in the 19th century by the Annesley family for, you’ve guessed it, ice storage it fell into disrepair and was restored for the National Trust in 1996.
The walk up the valley is very enjoyable indeed with blue skies, sunshine, the tinkling river and an easy upward gradient on a superb path. At the head of the valley I can see the route heading diagonally up the valley side and onto the broad col between Slieve Donard and Slieve Commedagh.
The path so far has been one long and consistently steady incline. The path up the valley side is slightly steeper but the top of the col is soon reached and I find myself standing next to the mightily impressive looking and solidly built Mourne Wall which stretches upwards, like some great stone roller coaster track, straight as an arrow all the way to the summit.
The wall, made from granite using dry stone walling techniques and completed in 1922 forms a twenty two mile enclosure around the Silent Valley reservoir. The idea is to prevent sheep and cattle contaminating the water catchment area. I don’t recall any massive granite walls around Haweswater or Thirlmere to keep the sheep away but maybe the residents of Manchester aren’t as fussy about their water.
The climb to the summit from the col is the steepest walking of the day but with the Mourne Wall as a silent, ever present companion I slip into a steady rhythm and in no time at all I’m standing on the highest point in Northern Ireland.
The summit of Slieve Donard is broad and grassy, gently sloping away on all sides like an upturned saucer and has some interesting features. A huge cairn dominates the top, not the result of over enthusiastic cairn builders but a Neolithic burial mound built around 5,000 years ago. This top cairn is known as ‘the great cairn’ there being a lesser burial mound a short distance away.
The Mourne Wall turns 90° to the right on the summit, heading off towards the Disney-esque named Rocky Mountain. At the turn sits a tower with the summit trig point planted on top of it. The tower was built at the same time as the wall by the same people, The Belfast Water Commissioners, but using mortar and provides a shelter from the elements as well as being a viewpoint.
And the view is superb. On one side, the Irish Sea stretches out to the horizon, too hazy today in the sunshine to see the Isle of Man. On the other, the whole vista of the Mourne Mountains is on show providing a tempting panorama for the mountain lover. The Mournes are a compact, intimate range of hills, far smaller in area than anything comparable in the rest of the UK but rugged enough to provide plenty of interest to a hillwalker. It’s certainly not the Cotswolds. I imagine if you lived locally you could get to know and enjoy these hills very well.
For me though, there is an ocean between us, so I must satisfy myself with climbing just one, albeit the highest. And in doing so I have achieved what I came here to do. I retrace my steps back down, delighting in the river and the forest and the views.
In Newcastle I find a cafe on the sea front, get myself a coffee and look out over the Irish Sea, taking time to reflect on the walk I’ve just done and the forty five years that have elapsed since the start this particular project. Sitting in the afternoon sunshine I’m pretty content to have finally brought to pass what I had undertaken to do and it feels fitting, having climbed one of Ireland’s finest mountains to quote one of its finest poets. And my hope is that I’m able to fulfill many more dreams, hopes and ambitions before it’s time for my own drop of dew to fall from the leaf.
Route Map, Walk Stats, Geolocated Pictures and 3D Flyover Video Below.
Well done Jim on completing what you set out to do 45 years ago.
Thank you Aud! 😀
Great pictures and commentary again Jim – and well done on completing your mission. Please allow mw to brag a bit here – I’ve climbed Snowdon 33 times, but I won’t go back now, it is too busy!
Blimey, 33 is a lot Dave! 2016 was my last time and I think post Covid it’s become very popular so not sure if I’ll return. I do like the warm sausage rolls they serve in the cafe though so never say never!
Excellent achievement. How about the highest peak in every county (Norfolk will be interesting)? I’m ashamed to say I’ve never been to NI, our neighbour over the way but this looks very inviting.
I might be wrong but I suspect standing on the highest point in every county might involve standing in lots of fields 😀 plenty of interesting things to do and see in Northern Ireland and would be worth a visit
Well done on completing the five. I’ve only managed Snowdon, myself!
Thanks Tim, Snowdon is a fine mountain and a worthy achievement in its own right 😀
Congratulations on completing all 5 summits Jim. 👍👍😊
Although it never really registered at the time, I must have completed my own ‘set’ in October 2014, when I went up Snowdon with my wife.
My friends and I had previously done the vast majority of the Mourne Wall walk, taking in Slieve Donard obviously, earlier that year. However I was aware that I was completing a special ’round’ with my mate, Pete, when we went up Snowdon last year, as we’d done all 4 of the others together.
In case you missed my post, you can find more details here:
https://alittlebitoutoffocus.com/2023/05/01/snowdonia-tour-day-4-of-4-the-pen-y-gwryd-hotel-to-beddgelert-north-wales/
Thanks Mike, it’s good to have little projects I think 😀 I’ll certainly have a read of your blog 👍
Well done Jim for achieving your ambition and I thoroughy enjoyed walking up Slieve Doard with you – if only from the chair in front of my computer. I’ve always wanted to visit the Mountains of Mourne but never managed it, so thanks to your fabulous photographs I can now see what I’ve missed.
Thanks Malc, I was surprised by how attractive the Mournes were and they would certainly be worth a visit if you ever get over there 😀
Wow, that’s fantastic, Jim! Well done for completing the list! I have to say that I actually like your idea of standing on top of the highest points in the five nations that make up the British Isles, and I might even steal it! I have done a fair share of hikes in Northern Ireland but never ventured up Slieve Donard. Thanks for sharing, and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx
Thank you Aiva and feel free to steal away, I’m sure plenty of others have it on their lists! I was very impressed with the Mournes and I don’t think they are too far from Sligo?
It would be around 6 hours for a round trip. We visited quite often when we lived in Dublin as they were within easy reach
Ah yes, probably easier from that side, I’ve always fancied a road trip down the wild atlantic way at some point
You should, Jim as Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way is one of the best road trips in the world. A delightful amalgamation of wind-warped cliffs, emerald hillsides, ancient historic sites and quintessentially Irish coastal towns, this 1500-mile journey takes you through many of the island’s superlative destinations 🙂 xx
Looks terrific.
Thanks John, it was a good walk and the weather helped 😀
Congratulations on completing your journey! The Mournes are one of my favourite parts of the world, i used to live on Central Promenade in Newcastle right at the foot of the mountains, on days off i’d walk out of the flat across to the sea, take my boots off and paddle for a bit (just because i could, it became a kind of ritual!) then turn around and walk up the mountains, Donard is great for the views but i really liked going up to Binian and free-climbing on the granite, i also worked at Murlough Nature Reserve where my aunt was a warden so i know that area very well! Great to see some photos of how it’s changed, thankyou!
Thanks Alexander and I’m glad I could bring back some memories for you 😀 Like I said in my post I was very impressed with the Mournes and if I didn’t have to fly or get the ferry to them I could imagine visiting them frequently
A satisfying feeling, Jim. There’s a snatch of song in my head about the mountains of Mourne. Thank you for showing them to me.
Thanks Jo, my pleasure. there is an old folk song I found when looking things up but it’s rather cheesy 😀
Simply magnificent! That rock wall is astounding. Such skill to construct something that stands the test of time. Thanks, Mel
Thanks Mel, yes it is quite striking 😀
Good ‘un Jim
Cheers Mike 👍
Congrats on achieving your 45 year old goal. That’s a large burial moind on top of the mountain. How fun to have met Chris Bonington though! That’s a lasting memory. Maggie
Thanks Maggie, yes a great memory to have met and chatted to him. On the mountain as well and not during a lecture tour or such like 😄
Beautiful silky shots of the waterfall
Thanks I. J
What a beautiful climb – and congratulations for finally ticking the 5th one off! Snowden is my nearest too, but I keep putting it off as the idea of crowds goes against why I like going out for hikes – peace, quiet and nature! 🙂
Thanks EJ, yes Snowdon is pretty busy these days , mid week out of the school hols is probably the best bet and never in the summer!
Great achievement!
Thanks Teresa 😄
Well done Jim in completing this challenge. This walk is gorgeous. Plenty of great photos of the amazing views.
So what next?
Thanks Mél, well I’ve got four Wainwright books that will keep me going for a while plus some other things that I hope to do 😀
Fantastic effort, and as you say that strip of water needs to be crossed twice to pick up the two Irish hills, so its a credit to those that can complete it
Thank Steve, yes not as easy to get over the water as it is to drive to the others 😀
Wonderful captures! Love the share from 1984. Those were the days then, weren’t they though?
Thanks 😀