The ‘Bisses’ of the Valais region of Switzerland are long irrigation channels, many of them hundreds of years old, built to channel water from high mountain streams down to pasture land in the valleys below. Carved out from rock along the valley sides many of them follow a precipitous route with dizzying drops below and vertical cliffs above. The Bisse du Torrent Neuf in the central Valais dates back to the 15th century. Thankfully it’s been restored since and today it offers a spectacular out and back walk along the cliff edges, past sheer rock faces and over wobbly suspension bridges.
I can’t remember exactly when I first read about the Bisse du Torrent Neuf but it has been on my ‘want to go’ list for a long time and our van trip to the Alps provides the perfect opportunity. The aire de camping car we are stopping in is pretty perfect. Set high above the small town of Savièse, for €10 a night it has toilets, hot water and a view along the Val d’Herens where I am hoping to catch a view of the Matterhorn if the tops ever clear of cloud. It’s also just a short walk to the start of Bisse du Torrent Neuf.
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Now I was fully expecting to complete this walk alone, my wife not being comfortable with, well let’s be honest, downright scared of heights and also having an irrational fear of suspension bridges of which there are four on the walk.
Recently however she has started to think about some of the long held preconceptions that she has ingrained into her psyche, and to challenge some of them. So when she announced “I’m going to do this” I wasn’t surprised but I was a little apprehensive.
It had been a cloudy night but the sun was just starting to peek through as we left the van and walked along the road to the start of the walk proper at a small cafe, Buvette des Vouasseurs. Not only is there a cafe at the start of the walk but there’s also one at the end/halfway point. A coffee and cake lovers paradise.
The sun is out when we arrive at the buvette and we enjoy a leisurely coffee. It’s set in a lovely location, in the heart of quiet, sun dappled woodland, a stream flowing gently past operates a mesmeric waterwheel and the small chapel of Saint Marguerite, built for the builders of the Bisse to pray for protection, is set up on a slight rise.
It’s a gentle start as we walk through the woodland, the stream tinkling alongside us in a channel next to the path, birds tweeting hidden away in the trees. Before long however the ground to our left starts to drop away and to our right reaches for the sky. By the time we arrive at the first suspension bridge we are most definitely on the side of the mountain. We discuss tactics and wait for the bridge to clear of people before Mish takes the plunge and marches over with determination. One down, seven to go.
The path now clings to the mountainside, mainly on solid earth but occasionally on wooden boardwalks that are bolted to the cliff face. There’s no doubt it’s exciting with sheer drops below and unscalable heights above. There is a barrier on the drop side though so actual risk I would suggest is minimal.
Soon after crossing the first suspension bridge a bronze bear, looking slightly out of place, appears in the middle of the path. It’s by the artist Veronique Olivier and Google translate tells me it’s here with peace to accompany us on our journey.
Just before the second suspension bridge there’s a substantial stone and wooden shelter to provide refuge when wind or bad weather prevents a safe crossing. After the bridge there is more woodland before another exposed section takes us under some avalanche/rockfall protection sheltering the path, and our heads.
The third suspension bridge is the longest at 97 metres. This is now the crux of the walk for Mish and she has to take a moment. She doesn’t want to cross it, but she wants to prove something to herself more. So after a good five minutes of stalling and a near refusal she digs deep and crosses what may be the longest ninety seven metres of her life.
Not long after the bridge we arrive at the small and lovely Notre Dame du Torrent Neuf. A chapel built into the rock with stained glass windows, candles and a statue of what I think may be the Virgin Mary. It also has a bell which we have heard ringing periodically as we have walked along.
Mish, it would be fair to say is pretty pumped now after crossing that bridge and can’t resist giving it a ring to mark her accomplishment. We don’t have a TV in the van so it was only when we got home that we saw the Gold medal winners at the Olympics were doing this very same thing.
The path passes through a tunnel hewn through solid rock, chapeau to the miners who did that, and there is more exposed board walking straight afterwards which leads to the fourth suspension bridge which Mish, being an old hand at it now, takes in her stride.
Soon afterwards we arrive at Buvette de Brac and relax on the patio with coffee and cake number two. Within five minutes of our arrival it starts to drizzle. It’s been threatening for a while and we can shelter under the big sun shades so it’s good timing although I am a little concerned about the walk back as the safety signs all say ‘don’t cross in wet or windy weather’.
The forecast indicates it will blow over so we hang around and after half an hour the drizzle eases and finally stops so, packs on, we get ready to walk back. The buvette is shutting up for the day and as we leave the owner casually tells me to watch out for falling rocks as the rain loosens the soil.
With this wise but disconcerting advise in our ears we set off. Needless to say the journey back is a lot quicker than the journey out, with no hanging around, Mish fairly racing across the bridges and me gazing skyward. They say you don’t hear the bullet that kills you, I wonder whether you see the rock.
The rain holds off though and no rocks ruin our day. The Buvette des Vouasseurs is still open although we resist the temptation of a third piece of cake.
The walk back to the van is in glorious sunshine, a buzzard circles lazily above us and I am finally greeted by clear tops, although after consulting Google Earth what I thought was the Matterhorn I’m pretty sure is really Dente Blanche.
Today happens to be Swiss National Day and as the afternoon rolls on we are starting to wonder why the aire, which is in the middle of nowhere is suddenly becoming popular with locals who are turning up, decorating their vans with Swiss flags and firing up bar-b-cues.
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When night falls all becomes clear. From our eyrie high above the valleys we are treated to a panoramic view of the dozens of firework displays going off far below us in villages and towns celebrating the founding of Switzerland in 1291. Standing with the locals, just for a moment, I feel Swiss.
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What a beautiful walk! It’s such a beautiful country (from what I hear). How lovely to have the company for this one, has your wife overcome her fear of the suspension bridges now? 🙂
Thank you EJ, yes Switzerland is a lovely, if expensive country. I think she was OK for that walk but I don’t think she’ll be going out of her way to cross any more!
Thoroughly enjoyed walking along the Bisse with you Jim. The scenery is glorious and you’ve captured it brilliantly. I especially like the video clips that bring it all to life.
Thanks Malc, yes great scenery and a good, exhilarating walk 😀
What a fabulous walk, Jim, and well done to Mish! I had no idea these bisses existed- similar to the levadas in Madeira. Not great if you hated it, having to walk back again and I’m sure there are people trembling in their boots thinking about it. I might be one of them, but it’s a stunner.
Thank you Jo. Yes, not that I’ve been there but I imagine they are similar the Levadas. I didn’t mention it but there was a German couple who had to turn back because the wife couldn’t cross over
I’m not really surprised, Jim, but that must have made your wife feel great that she did it.
She was chuffed to bits!
I’ve never heard of this walk – but now its on my list as well.
Thanks Dave, there are a few of them in Saviese but I think this is the most well known. 👍
Wow, what an adrenalin walk. Of course I’m with your wife on this one. I hope she enjoyed it.
Thanks Ruth, I’m not sure she’d say she enjoyed it! 😀 But she did get a great sense of achievement I think, doing something she never thought she could do.
What a great walk! Glad your wife went with you in the end. Maggie
Thanks Maggie, yes, I don’t think she’ll make a habit of crossing suspension bridges but she was pleased she challenged herself 😀
Looks a fantastic walk. We had a family holiday in Madeira and hiked a long levada trail, although not on the scale of yours. My wife is also nervous about heights, so I think your wife is amazing for overcoming her fear on that suspension bridge!
Thanks Tony, I’ve not been to Madeira but from what I’ve heard I think the Bisses are similar
Oh, my gosh. Imagine the guys that had to build it. How did they do that?
Thanks Coral, tough work that for sure! And in pre mechanisation days as well
Great post Jim and fantastic photos and videos to show the scale of the drops! It certainly took me back! I did that same walk almost exactly 5 years ago. I dare say you did a few more walks in that area, so I’m looking forward to your next posts… 😊👍👍
Thanks Mike, I read and enjoyed your post about your walk along it, I’m not sure if that’s when I first heard of it. Unfortunately we were passing through on our way to Grindelwald so this was a stop off walk. I know you lived in Switzerland and love the Val d’Herens area, maybe I’ll get back there someday and do some of your walks!
I’d like to think it was my post but, no matter, the main thing is you enjoyed it and, hopefully, conquered your wife’s fears for good!
Yes, the Val d’Hérens is a beautiful unspoilt valley. Well worth a special trip (with a mixture of easy and hard walks as you will see on my website). Mid-August is a good time to go (if you can get a pitch) as there’s always a mid-summer festival in Evolène on the 15th. They have a procession down the main street with vintage cars and floats demonstrating the old crafts. Every alternate year it’s about a week long to include a mountain festival with 4 or 5 countries also represented demonstrating their music and dancing in traditional costumes. There are two evening shows in a large marquee but you can also see ad hoc performances in the villages around.
As an aside, I was recently asked to review a new book by Cicerone called Walking in Arolla and Zinal. Suffice it to say that I wasn’t that impressed. The first few walks are simply based up on the Tour of the Val d’Hérens (which is also mentioned later in the book) and there were too many linear walks for my liking. Some of the information regarding the buses was also factually incorrect. So be warned!
Thanks Mike, I think if we end up back there I’d be looking at some of yours 😀
We always love hearing about your hikes, and seeing the amazing photos! And wow, I also have a crazy fear of heights and suspension bridges, I am so impressed with your wife for doing this!!!! Inspiring!!
Thank you Barbara 😀 Yes she was pretty pleased with herself for overcoming her fears although I don’t think she is going to make a habit of crossing suspension bridges!
What a spectacular walk, Jim – thanks for posting.
I like the sound of the ‘Aires’ for motorhomes, pity that we don’t have similar in Britain.
Thanks Richard, yes Aires are great, free or very cheap they are all over France, which has a completely different attitude to motorhomes than England. Scotland is a little better but inconsiderate campervanners on the NC500 are straining that a little
What an awesome place.
Thanks Teresa! Yes it was 😀
Beautiful walk and congratulations to your wife. Rocks falling can be dangerous. My grandfather lost one of his brothers like that while hiking in the Pyrenees.
Oh, that is sad Mél. Yes, I made light of it in my post but was very aware how dangerous a falling rock could be, especially as we had no head protection. My wife was chuffed to bits with conquering her fear of suspension bridges 😀
Sounds amazing – lovely photos! Well done to your wife on facing a fear. I’m no fan of heights, myself!
Thank you Alison, yes she was pleased with herself for crossing those suspension bridges 😀