So today is the day. The day when I start my quest to complete all of the Wainwright’s in book order, starting of course with Book One, The Eastern Fells. I have spent the night at ‘The Quiet Site, a caravan/campervan site which happens to be at the foot of Little Mell Fell, perfect for my walk. It’s January and it’s cold but I am treated to a glorious sunrise, the clouds slowly turning golden in anticipation and then our very own star rising up over the Far Eastern Fells and marking the start of a new day.
I leave the campsite as the Sun defrosts the ground and walk the kilometre or so up the lane to the top of the road, known as the Hause. From the Hause the path for Little Mell Fell goes through a gate and can be clearly seen heading up the hill at a fairly steep incline.
Wainwright, in typical style rather dismisses the walk up from the Hause and its fair to say that there is nothing particularly remarkable or memorable on the way up other than a well worn set of foot marks to plant your boots into.
After a short while the top, marked by a Trig Pillar with a little frozen moat around it is reached. Considering its small stature, the view from the top is remarkable extensive. Cross Fell and the Pennines can be seen clearly across the Eden Valley with a dusting of snow on their tops and below, the ribbon of Ullswater glistens in the morning Sun. To the South, Great Dodd, Stybarrow Dodd and other mountains I will become acquainted with also stand out with rather more substantial snow covering their higher ground.
From the summit, my next destination, Great Mell Fell can be clearly seen across the valley a couple of miles to the West. I follow the path, not as pronounced as the one from the Hause as it drops off Little Mell Fell to the West and after joining a farm track, meet up with the road/lane. A short walk along the road takes you to Green Barn where a footpath which is extremely boggy goes across the small valley to Brownrigg farm.
The path to Brownrigg Farm (beware the bog)After a very short walk up the road a track, leading off to the left is met. The track is followed until you reach a gate (you can climb the stile if you like) which then takes you out onto the open fell. The walk up Great Mell Fell is a far more interesting one than its little brother across the valley. There is small wood at the start which the path skirts around on a rocky path and then after an open grassland section another little copse of windswept almost petrified trees, Scots Pines apparently are reached. Wainwright makes mention of these: “bleached skeletons of trees near the top of the fell”.
Not long after the pines , the summit, which is marked by a little pile of rocks is reached. Like Little Mell Fell, its isolation gives it commanding views.
From the summit, the view of Blencathra, is probably the highlight. Hall’s Fell Ridge and Sharp edge standing out in the clear winter air seem to be almost within touching distance.
The walk down retraces the walk up and once back on the road I follow it for the three miles or so all the way back to the campsite. The walk back is unremarkable but does provide views of the days achievements to admire on the way.
To Find All My Walks In The Eastern Fells Click Here
For map and route details of this walk click ‘Learn more’ below.